Below is every ingredient in in my defence (sachets) explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that bind retinoic acid receptors to normalize keratinization, increase epidermal cell turnover, and stimulate collagen synthesis. They are widely used for acne, photoaging, and pigmentation concerns.
Exfoliants remove dead cells from the skin's surface either chemically (e.g., AHAs, BHAs, enzymes) or physically (scrubs), promoting cell turnover and improving texture and tone. They are commonly used to address dullness, uneven texture, clogged pores, and signs of photoaging.
(-)-Alpha-Bisabolol is a naturally occurring sesquiterpene alcohol, originally isolated from chamomile, used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is generally well tolerated and often included to calm irritation and enhance the penetration of other ingredients.
Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products.
Eclipta Prostrata (false daisy / bhringraj) extract is a plant-derived ingredient traditionally used in hair and scalp care, valued for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and reported hair-growth-supporting properties. In skincare it is included for its flavonoid and coumestan content as a soothing antioxidant agent.
Phytosphingosine is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps maintain the skin barrier and also exhibits antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly incorporated into moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations to support ceramide synthesis and skin integrity.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin irritation (redness, stinging, burning) | Common | Most prominent during the initial weeks of use, often called the retinization period. |
| Dryness and peeling/flaking | Common | Result of accelerated epidermal turnover; usually improves as skin acclimates. |
| Increased photosensitivity | Common | Sunscreen use is recommended; retinoids are typically applied at night. |
| Purging (transient acne flare) | Uncommon | Temporary worsening of breakouts as comedones surface early in treatment. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True hypersensitivity is uncommon; irritant reactions are far more frequent. |
| Teratogenicity with oral/systemic retinoids | Rare | A serious concern for systemic retinoids; topical absorption is low but caution is advised in pregnancy. |
| Skin irritation, redness, or stinging | Common | Often dose- and frequency-dependent; more pronounced with higher acid concentrations or overuse. |
| Dryness and flaking | Common | Result of accelerated cell turnover; usually transient. |
| Burning or contact dermatitis | Uncommon | More likely with sensitive skin or compromised skin barrier. |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | Uncommon | Higher risk in darker skin tones, especially with aggressive exfoliation. |
| Chemical burns or blistering | Rare | Associated with high-concentration peels or prolonged contact times. |
| Scarring | Very rare | Typically linked to improper use of strong peels or picking at treated skin. |
| Skin dryness or barrier disruption with excessive contact | Uncommon | Frequent or prolonged exposure to water, especially hot or hard water, can disrupt the skin barrier and contribute to transepidermal water loss. |
| Irritation from impurities or hard water minerals | Rare | Reactions are attributed to contaminants, chlorine, or mineral content rather than water itself. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| like retinoids Key active Cell-turnover regulator / anti-aging active | Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that bind retinoic acid receptors to normalize keratinization, increase epidermal cell turnover, and stimulate collagen synthesis. They are widely used for acne, photoaging, and pigmentation concerns. |
| exfoliants Key active Exfoliant | Exfoliants remove dead cells from the skin's surface either chemically (e.g., AHAs, BHAs, enzymes) or physically (scrubs), promoting cell turnover and improving texture and tone. They are commonly used to address dullness, uneven texture, clogged pores, and signs of photoaging. |
| more resilient skin. Aeroplane cabins Ingredient | |
| during N/A — not a valid ingredient | "During" is an English preposition and not a recognized skincare ingredient, cosmetic compound, or INCI-listed substance. There is no dermatological or cosmetic-chemistry data associated with it. |
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Dicaprylyl Carbonate Emollient / texture enhancer | Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a lightweight, non-greasy emollient derived from coconut-based fatty alcohols and carbonic acid, used to improve skin feel and spreadability in cosmetic formulations. It also acts as a solvent and helps distribute pigments and other ingredients evenly. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| 2-hexanediol Humectant/preservative-booster | 1,2-Hexanediol (commonly written 2-hexanediol) is a multifunctional diol used in skincare primarily as a humectant, solvent, and preservative-enhancing agent that improves the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations. It is generally well tolerated and considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Dipropylene Glycol Solvent/humectant | Dipropylene glycol is a clear, low-viscosity glycol used in cosmetics primarily as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-reducing agent. It helps dissolve fragrances and other ingredients while contributing mild moisture-retention properties. |
| Betaine Humectant / osmolyte | Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid derivative (trimethylglycine) used in skincare as a humectant and osmoprotectant that attracts and retains moisture while helping stabilize skin barrier function. It also improves the texture and mildness of formulations. |
| Euterpe Oleracea Sterols Emollient/skin-conditioning agent | Euterpe Oleracea (acai) Sterols are a plant-derived sterol fraction used in skincare for their emollient and skin-barrier-supporting properties, helping to soften skin and reduce moisture loss. They function primarily as conditioning and texture-enhancing components rather than as a clinically proven treatment active. |
| Ceramide NP Skin-barrier replenishing lipid / emollient | Ceramide NP (formerly ceramide 3) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss and improving hydration. It is widely used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Ceramide NS Skin-barrier lipid / emollient | Ceramide NS (formerly Ceramide 2) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss and improving hydration. It is widely used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Ceramide AS Skin-barrier lipid / emollient | Ceramide AS is a synthetic sphingolipid that mimics naturally occurring skin ceramides, helping restore and reinforce the stratum corneum barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss. It is commonly used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Ceramide AP Skin barrier lipid / moisturizer | Ceramide AP (ceramide 6-II) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss. It is commonly used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations, often combined with other ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. |
| Ceramide EOP Skin barrier lipid | Ceramide EOP is a long-chain omega-hydroxy ceramide that helps form and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, supporting moisture retention and reducing transepidermal water loss. It is commonly used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| (-)-alpha-bisabolol Key active Soothing / anti-inflammatory agent | (-)-Alpha-Bisabolol is a naturally occurring sesquiterpene alcohol, originally isolated from chamomile, used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is generally well tolerated and often included to calm irritation and enhance the penetration of other ingredients. |
| Cetearyl Olivate Emulsifier / emollient | Cetearyl Olivate is an olive oil-derived emulsifier and emollient, typically used with Sorbitan Olivate, that helps blend oil and water phases while conditioning and softening the skin. It supports the skin barrier and gives formulations a light, non-greasy feel. |
| Sorbitan Olivate Emulsifier | Sorbitan Olivate is an olive-derived ester of sorbitol and olive oil fatty acids used as a non-ionic emulsifier and emollient. It is often paired with Cetearyl Olivate (as Olivem 1000) to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and impart a soft skin feel. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Vinyl Dimethicone Silicone emollient/film-former | Vinyl Dimethicone is a vinyl-functionalized silicone polymer used in skincare and cosmetics as an emollient, conditioning agent, and film-former that imparts a smooth, silky feel and can act as a crosslinker in silicone elastomer systems. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Hydrogenated Lecithin Emollient / Emulsifier | Hydrogenated lecithin is a phospholipid derived from lecithin through hydrogenation, used in skincare as an emulsifier, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent. It also helps stabilize formulations and form liposomes that can aid delivery of other ingredients. |
| Cholesterol Skin barrier lipid / emollient | Cholesterol is a naturally occurring lipid found in the skin's stratum corneum that, alongside ceramides and fatty acids, helps maintain the skin barrier and prevent transepidermal water loss. In skincare formulations it functions as an emollient and barrier-repair agent that improves hydration and skin resilience. |
| Stearic Acid Emulsifier / thickener | Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid widely used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and emollient to stabilize creams and lotions. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier/emollient | Glyceryl Stearate is a glycerol ester of stearic acid widely used as a non-ionic emulsifier and emollient to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It functions as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Eclipta Prostrata Extract Key active Antioxidant / hair-and-scalp conditioning botanical | Eclipta Prostrata (false daisy / bhringraj) extract is a plant-derived ingredient traditionally used in hair and scalp care, valued for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and reported hair-growth-supporting properties. In skincare it is included for its flavonoid and coumestan content as a soothing antioxidant agent. |
| Phytosphingosine Key active Skin-conditioning agent / barrier-supporting lipid | Phytosphingosine is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps maintain the skin barrier and also exhibits antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly incorporated into moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations to support ceramide synthesis and skin integrity. |
| Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract Key active Antioxidant/anti-inflammatory | Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract is derived from the turmeric plant and contains curcuminoids valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties. It is used topically to help reduce oxidative stress, soothe irritation, and improve uneven skin tone. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract Key active Soothing/antimicrobial botanical extract | Melia Azadirachta (neem) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often used in skincare for soothing and conditioning effects. It contains bioactive compounds such as nimbidin and flavonoids. |
| Sorbitan Isostearate Emulsifier / surfactant | Sorbitan isostearate is a sorbitan ester of isostearic acid used as a nonionic emulsifier and stabilizer in oil-in-water and water-in-oil cosmetic formulations. It helps blend oil and water phases and improves texture and spreadability. |
| Disodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Melia Key active Botanical extract/antimicrobial | Melia (commonly Melia azadirachta or Melia azedarach) is a plant-derived extract used in skincare for its purported antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is often included in formulations targeting acne-prone or irritated skin. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.