Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Biolumin C Gel Moisturiser explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-supporting properties. It is designed to be more stable and less irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid while delivering similar benefits.
Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products.
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types.
Ergothioneine is a naturally occurring, sulfur-containing amino acid derivative used in skincare as a potent antioxidant that helps protect skin cells from oxidative stress and may support skin barrier function. It is valued for its stability and ability to scavenge free radicals.
Beta-carotene is a carotenoid pigment and provitamin A antioxidant used in skincare to help neutralize free radicals and provide mild orange-yellow coloration. It can be converted to retinol in the body and is also valued for supporting skin defense against oxidative stress.
Lactobacillus Ferment is a postbiotic ingredient produced by the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria, used in skincare for its soothing, barrier-supporting, and antioxidant properties. It may help balance the skin microbiome and reduce visible signs of irritation.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin dryness or barrier disruption with excessive contact | Uncommon | Frequent or prolonged exposure to water, especially hot or hard water, can disrupt the skin barrier and contribute to transepidermal water loss. |
| Irritation from impurities or hard water minerals | Rare | Reactions are attributed to contaminants, chlorine, or mineral content rather than water itself. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Mild irritation or stinging | Rare | Generally only with impure formulations or already compromised skin. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated case reports; squalane has very low sensitizing potential. |
| Acneiform breakouts / clogged pores | Rare | Low comedogenic rating, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild skin irritation | Uncommon | Transient stinging or redness, more likely on compromised or sensitive skin. |
| Enhanced penetration of co-formulated irritants | Uncommon | As a penetration enhancer it may increase absorption and irritation potential of other actives. |
| Redness or itching | Rare | Typically resolves after discontinuation. |
| Eye irritation | Uncommon | Possible transient stinging if product contacts the eyes, depending on concentration. |
| Reaction related to PEG/ethylene oxide impurities | Very rare | Theoretical concern from residual processing impurities (e.g., 1,4-dioxane); minimized by proper purification. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Squalane Emollient / occlusive moisturizer | Squalane is a saturated, stable hydrocarbon derived from squalene (sourced from plants like olives or sugarcane, or shark liver) used as a lightweight emollient that softens skin and reinforces the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss. It is well tolerated, non-comedogenic for most users, and serves as a base or carrier ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| PPG-24-Glycereth-24 Emulsifier/solubilizer | PPG-24-Glycereth-24 is a polypropylene glycol and glycereth-derived nonionic surfactant used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, emulsifier, and humectant. It helps disperse oils and fragrances into water-based products and contributes to texture and stability. |
| Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters Emulsifier / surfactant | Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters is a polyethylene glycol-modified derivative of jojoba wax used in skincare and cleansing formulations as a nonionic emulsifier, solubilizer, and mild surfactant. It helps blend oil and water phases and can impart emollient and conditioning properties. |
| Hydroxyethyl Urea Humectant / moisturizer | Hydroxyethyl Urea is a water-soluble humectant derived from urea that attracts and binds moisture to the skin, helping improve hydration and softness. It is commonly used in moisturizers and leave-on formulations as a gentle alternative to urea. |
| Trehalose Humectant / moisturizer | Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide used in skincare as a humectant and protective agent, helping retain moisture and stabilize cell membranes and proteins against dehydration and oxidative stress. It is well tolerated and commonly used to support skin barrier hydration. |
| Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Key active Vitamin C derivative (antioxidant/brightening active) | Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-supporting properties. It is designed to be more stable and less irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid while delivering similar benefits. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Hyaluronic Acid Key active Humectant / hydrating agent | Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types. |
| Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Humectant / moisturizer | Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is a low-molecular-weight form of hyaluronic acid broken into smaller fragments, allowing better penetration into the skin to bind water and improve hydration. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums to enhance skin moisture content and surface smoothness. |
| Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Emollient / Skin-conditioning agent | Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are water-dispersible esters derived from jojoba oil, used to soften and condition the skin and to provide a smooth, non-greasy feel. They function primarily as an emollient and texture enhancer in cosmetic formulations rather than as a treatment active. |
| Biosaccharide Gum-1 Humectant / skin-conditioning film former | Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a naturally derived polysaccharide (produced via fermentation of sorbitol) used to hydrate, soothe, and form a smoothing protective film on the skin. It is valued for its moisturizing and skin-softening properties and is generally considered well tolerated. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Sodium PCA Humectant | Sodium PCA (sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid and a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It is widely used in cosmetics as a water-binding humectant to hydrate and soften the skin. |
| Sodium Levulinate Preservative / humectant | Sodium Levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid, derived from natural sugars, used primarily as a mild preservative and antimicrobial agent that also provides moisturizing properties. It is often paired with sodium anisate in natural-leaning preservative systems. |
| Ergothioneine Key active Antioxidant | Ergothioneine is a naturally occurring, sulfur-containing amino acid derivative used in skincare as a potent antioxidant that helps protect skin cells from oxidative stress and may support skin barrier function. It is valued for its stability and ability to scavenge free radicals. |
| Beta-Carotene Key active Antioxidant / provitamin A colorant | Beta-carotene is a carotenoid pigment and provitamin A antioxidant used in skincare to help neutralize free radicals and provide mild orange-yellow coloration. It can be converted to retinol in the body and is also valued for supporting skin defense against oxidative stress. |
| Lactobacillus Ferment Key active Probiotic-derived skin conditioning/soothing agent | Lactobacillus Ferment is a postbiotic ingredient produced by the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria, used in skincare for its soothing, barrier-supporting, and antioxidant properties. It may help balance the skin microbiome and reduce visible signs of irritation. |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Soothing/humectant | Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its hydrating, soothing, and emollient properties, often included to calm irritation and improve skin moisture. It functions primarily as a base/conditioning agent rather than a targeted treatment active. |
| Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant | Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea extract) is derived from the leaves of the tea plant and is rich in polyphenols, particularly catechins like EGCG. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract Key active Soothing / anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in compounds such as bisabolol, chamazulene, and flavonoids, valued for its skin-calming and antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in topical formulations to reduce redness and irritation. |
| Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Key active Brightening / anti-inflammatory antioxidant | Licorice root extract is a botanical ingredient valued in skincare for its skin-brightening and soothing properties, primarily attributed to compounds such as glabridin and liquiritin. It is used to help reduce hyperpigmentation, calm inflammation, and provide antioxidant protection. |
| Verbascum Thapsus Extract Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical | Verbascum Thapsus (mullein) extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its soothing, emollient, and antioxidant properties, attributed to flavonoids, saponins, and mucilage. It is typically included to help calm irritation and provide a softening effect on the skin. |
| Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract Key active Exfoliant / antioxidant | Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract is a probiotic-derived ferment created by fermenting pumpkin with Lactobacillus bacteria, yielding enzymes, organic acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. It is used in skincare for mild enzymatic exfoliation, antioxidant support, and to help condition and brighten the skin. |
| Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil Emollient / antioxidant | Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in linoleic acid, tocopherols, and phytosterols used in skincare to soften skin, reinforce the barrier, and provide mild antioxidant activity. It functions primarily as a base emollient rather than a targeted treatment active. |
| Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract Antioxidant / fragrance / skin conditioning | Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract is derived from the peel of sweet oranges and is used in skincare for its antioxidant content, natural fragrance, and skin-conditioning properties. It contains flavonoids, vitamin C, and limonene-rich essential oil components. |
| Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil Fragrance/masking agent | Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil is a cold-pressed essential oil derived from grapefruit peel, used primarily as a natural fragrance and masking ingredient in cosmetic formulations. It contains limonene and other terpenes along with phototoxic furanocoumarins. |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E used to soften skin and support the skin barrier. It functions as an emollient and occlusive agent in many cosmetic formulations. |
| Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Bergamot fruit oil is a cold-pressed citrus essential oil used primarily as a fragrance and aromatic component in cosmetic formulations. It contains furocoumarins (notably bergapten) that can cause phototoxic reactions on UV-exposed skin. |
| Raspberry Ketone Fragrance/flavor agent | Raspberry ketone is an aromatic phenolic compound used primarily for its sweet berry-like scent in cosmetics, and is marketed in some products for purported skin and weight-related benefits, though clinical evidence for topical efficacy is limited. It functions mainly as a fragrance ingredient rather than a proven dermatological active. |
| Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Flower Extract Fragrance/antioxidant botanical extract | Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare primarily for its aromatic properties and as a source of antioxidant and soothing phytochemicals. It is most often included as a fragrance component or supportive botanical rather than a primary functional active. |
| Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil Fragrance/antioxidant | Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil is an essential oil derived from sandalwood heartwood, used in skincare primarily for fragrance and its reported anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It contains santalol as its main bioactive constituent. |
| Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning | Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract is a botanical extract rich in carotenoids (beta-carotene), vitamins, and antioxidants used in skincare for its conditioning and antioxidant properties. It is commonly included to support skin tone and provide protective benefits against oxidative stress. |
| Bisabolol Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory agent | Bisabolol is a naturally derived (typically from chamomile) or synthetic terpene alcohol used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is also reported to enhance penetration of other ingredients and offers mild antimicrobial activity. |
| Cystine Key active Conditioning / antioxidant amino acid | Cystine is a sulfur-containing amino acid (a dimer of cysteine) used in skincare and haircare as a conditioning agent and to support keratin structure and antioxidant defense. It is found naturally in skin and hair proteins and is generally well tolerated in topical formulations. |
| Glycine Amino acid / humectant | Glycine is a small amino acid used in skincare as a humectant and conditioning agent, supporting skin hydration and acting as a building block for collagen and natural moisturizing factor. It is generally considered well-tolerated and is often included as part of moisturizing or barrier-support formulations. |
| Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Key active Anti-inflammatory/soothing agent | Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a water-soluble salt derived from licorice root (glycyrrhizic acid) used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antioxidant properties. It is commonly added to formulations to calm irritation, redness, and sensitivity. |
| Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans are enzymatically or chemically broken-down GAGs (such as hyaluronic acid and related polysaccharides) used in skincare to bind water and improve skin hydration and surface smoothness. The smaller fragments are intended to aid absorption and provide moisturizing, conditioning benefits. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer Humectant / hydrating agent | Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a chemically cross-linked form of sodium hyaluronate that forms a hydrated network, providing enhanced moisture retention and longer-lasting surface hydration compared to standard hyaluronic acid. It is widely used in moisturizers, serums, and masks to plump and smooth the skin surface. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Mannitol Humectant/antioxidant | Mannitol is a sugar alcohol (polyol) used in skincare primarily as a humectant and texture-enhancing agent, and it also functions as a free-radical scavenger. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Chelating agent | Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a biodegradable chelator that binds metal ions in cosmetic formulations, improving product stability and enhancing preservative efficacy. It is derived from glutamic acid and serves a formulation-support role rather than an active skin treatment. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.