Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Anti Ageing Serum explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is an ester of retinoic acid that binds directly to retinoid receptors without conversion, offering anti-aging and skin-renewal benefits. It is generally considered gentler than traditional retinoids while remaining biologically active.
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols such as rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is commonly added to help protect formulations and skin from oxidative stress.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract is derived from the outer layer of rice grains and is rich in antioxidants, vitamins (notably vitamin E and gamma-oryzanol), and fatty acids. It is used in skincare for its emollient, soothing, and antioxidant properties, and may help support skin barrier function and brightness.
Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity.
Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide derived from sources such as oats, yeast, and mushrooms that functions as a humectant and skin-soothing ingredient. It supports hydration, helps reinforce the skin barrier, and has been studied for antioxidant and wound-healing properties.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially non-irritating; rare reactions relate to impurities or hardness minerals rather than water itself |
| Transepidermal water loss from excess evaporation | Uncommon | Water-heavy products without occlusives may evaporate and contribute to skin dryness in some individuals |
| Mild irritation or stinging | Rare | Generally only with impure formulations or already compromised skin. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated case reports; squalane has very low sensitizing potential. |
| Acneiform breakouts / clogged pores | Rare | Low comedogenic rating, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional reports of transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive skin. |
| Comedogenicity / pore congestion | Rare | As an emollient it may contribute to clogged pores in acne-prone individuals, though branched fatty alcohols are generally considered low risk. |
| Enhanced penetration of co-formulated irritants | Uncommon | As a penetration enhancer it may increase absorption and irritation potential of other actives. |
| Mild skin irritation or stinging | Uncommon | May occur at higher concentrations or on compromised/sensitive skin. |
| Increased penetration-related irritation from co-formulated actives | Uncommon | By enhancing delivery, DMI can amplify irritancy of other ingredients in the product. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic sensitization | Rare | Allergic reactions are infrequently reported in the literature. |
| Transient erythema (redness) | Rare | Usually mild and self-resolving. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water/Aqua/Eau Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent for water-soluble actives and as the continuous phase in emulsions. It is considered inert and non-active, providing hydration to the formula rather than direct therapeutic effect. |
| Squalane Emollient / occlusive moisturizer | Squalane is a saturated, stable hydrocarbon derived from squalene (sourced from plants like olives or sugarcane, or shark liver) used as a lightweight emollient that softens skin and reinforces the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss. It is well tolerated, non-comedogenic for most users, and serves as a base or carrier ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Hexyldecanol Emollient / fatty alcohol | Hexyldecanol is a branched-chain fatty alcohol used in skincare as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent that softens skin and helps stabilize emulsions. It contributes to texture and spreadability in cosmetic formulations. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Dimethyl Isosorbide Solvent / penetration enhancer | Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is a small, polar solvent derived from isosorbide used in cosmetic formulations to dissolve active ingredients and enhance their penetration into the skin. It functions as a vehicle and carrier rather than a therapeutic active itself. |
| Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Emulsifier/stabilizer (thickener) | Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic acrylate-based polymer used to thicken, stabilize, and emulsify cosmetic formulations, creating smooth gel and cream textures. It is widely employed as a rheology modifier and is not a therapeutic active. |
| Hydroxyacetophenone Antioxidant / soothing agent | Hydroxyacetophenone (acetophenone-based compound, often 4'-hydroxyacetophenone) is used in skincare primarily as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent that can also enhance the stability and efficacy of preservative systems. It is valued for its soothing properties and helps neutralize free radicals while reducing potential irritation from other formulation components. |
| Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Key active Retinoid (next-generation ester) | Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is an ester of retinoic acid that binds directly to retinoid receptors without conversion, offering anti-aging and skin-renewal benefits. It is generally considered gentler than traditional retinoids while remaining biologically active. |
| Retinol Key active Vitamin A derivative / anti-aging active | Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne. |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E used to soften skin and support the skin barrier. It functions as an emollient and occlusive agent in many cosmetic formulations. |
| Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant / botanical extract | Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols such as rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is commonly added to help protect formulations and skin from oxidative stress. |
| Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil Fragrance/aromatic oil | Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil (geranium oil) is an essential oil derived from geranium flowers, used in skincare primarily for its scent and as a botanical additive with mild antimicrobial and astringent properties. It is generally considered a fragrance/sensory ingredient rather than a proven treatment active. |
| Aniba Rosodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Aniba Rosodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil is an essential oil distilled from rosewood, valued in cosmetics for its floral-woody scent and high linalool content. It is used primarily as a fragrance and aromatic component rather than as a treatment active. |
| Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil Fragrance/essential oil (aromatic, antimicrobial) | Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is a volatile essential oil derived from eucalyptus leaves, rich in 1,8-cineole (eucalyptol), used in skincare for its aromatic, antimicrobial, and mildly soothing properties. It is most often added for scent or minor antiseptic effect rather than as a primary therapeutic active. |
| Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil Fragrance/antioxidant | Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil is an essential oil derived from sandalwood heartwood, used in skincare primarily for fragrance and its reported anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It contains santalol as its main bioactive constituent. |
| Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract Key active Antioxidant / skin conditioning | Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract is derived from the outer layer of rice grains and is rich in antioxidants, vitamins (notably vitamin E and gamma-oryzanol), and fatty acids. It is used in skincare for its emollient, soothing, and antioxidant properties, and may help support skin barrier function and brightness. |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract Emollient/antioxidant | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract is derived from sunflower seeds and contains fatty acids, vitamin E, and other antioxidants. It is used in skincare to condition, soften, and provide mild antioxidant and skin-barrier-supporting benefits. |
| Cupressus Sempervirens Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Cupressus Sempervirens (cypress) oil is an essential oil derived from cypress tree needles and twigs, used in skincare primarily as a fragrance, astringent, and aromatic additive. It contains terpenes such as alpha-pinene and delta-3-carene. |
| Juniperus Virginiana Oil Fragrance/Aromatic | Juniperus Virginiana (cedarwood) Oil is an essential oil derived from the Eastern red cedar, used primarily as a fragrance component and for its aromatic and mild astringent properties in cosmetics. It contains compounds such as cedrol and thujopsene that contribute to its scent. |
| Abies Sibirica Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Abies Sibirica (Siberian fir) Oil is an essential oil derived from the needles of the Siberian fir tree, used primarily as a fragrance and masking ingredient in cosmetic formulations. It contains terpene compounds such as bornyl acetate and camphene that contribute its characteristic pine-like scent. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Beta-Glucan Key active Hydrating soothing agent | Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide derived from sources such as oats, yeast, and mushrooms that functions as a humectant and skin-soothing ingredient. It supports hydration, helps reinforce the skin barrier, and has been studied for antioxidant and wound-healing properties. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| BHT Antioxidant/preservative | BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) is a synthetic phenolic antioxidant used in small amounts to prevent oxidation and rancidity of oils, fragrances, and other unstable components, helping maintain product stability and shelf life. |
| Ceramide NP Skin-barrier replenishing lipid / emollient | Ceramide NP (formerly ceramide 3) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss and improving hydration. It is widely used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a solvent for oil-soluble ingredients. It is well-tolerated and serves primarily as a base ingredient rather than an active. |
| Cetyl Palmitate Emollient / Thickener | Cetyl palmitate is a waxy ester of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid used as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsion stabilizer in creams, lotions, and cosmetics. It softens skin and helps provide a smooth texture and consistent product structure. |
| 1,2-Hexanediol Humectant / preservative booster | 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic diol used in skincare as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, often allowing reduced or preservative-free systems. It helps maintain product stability while contributing mild moisturizing properties. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Polysorbate 60 Emulsifier / surfactant | Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, used to blend oil and water phases and stabilize emulsions in creams and lotions. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Chelating agent | Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a biodegradable chelator that binds metal ions in cosmetic formulations, improving product stability and enhancing preservative efficacy. It is derived from glutamic acid and serves a formulation-support role rather than an active skin treatment. |
| Hydroxystearic Acid Emollient / thickener | Hydroxystearic acid is a fatty acid derivative used in skincare as an emollient, viscosity modifier, and surfactant/dispersing agent to improve texture and stability. It functions primarily as a formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Sorbitan Isostearate Emulsifier / surfactant | Sorbitan isostearate is a sorbitan ester of isostearic acid used as a nonionic emulsifier and stabilizer in oil-in-water and water-in-oil cosmetic formulations. It helps blend oil and water phases and improves texture and spreadability. |
| Laureth-23 Surfactant / emulsifier | Laureth-23 is a polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol used in skincare and cosmetic formulations as a nonionic surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer. It helps blend oil and water phases and disperse poorly soluble ingredients rather than providing a direct therapeutic action. |
| Trideceth-6 Phosphate Emulsifier / surfactant | Trideceth-6 Phosphate is a phosphate ester of ethoxylated tridecyl alcohol used as an emulsifier, surfactant, and emulsion stabilizer in cosmetic and skincare formulations. It helps blend oil and water phases and improves product texture and spreadability. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 Film-forming/sensory-enhancing rheology modifier | Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a synthetic crosslinked acrylate polymer used in skincare and cosmetic formulations to provide a smooth, silky sensory feel, stabilize emulsions, and help form a light film on the skin. It is a formulation aid rather than a biologically active treatment ingredient. |
| Sodium Benzoate Preservative | Sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative in cosmetic and skincare formulations to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and fungi, particularly in acidic products. It is most effective at a pH below 5. |
| Benzyl Alcohol Preservative / solvent | Benzyl alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used primarily as a preservative and solvent in cosmetic formulations, and it also provides mild fragrance and viscosity-reducing properties. It is approved for use as a preservative at concentrations up to about 1% in leave-on and rinse-off products. |
| Linalool Fragrance/masking agent | Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in lavender, coriander, and many other plants, used in skincare primarily as a fragrance component. It readily oxidizes upon exposure to air, forming sensitizing hydroperoxides. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.