Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Aa explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract is a plant-derived extract rich in proanthocyanidins and polyphenols, used in skincare for its antioxidant and free-radical scavenging properties. It may help protect skin from oxidative and environmental stress.
Arnica Montana Flower Extract is a plant-derived extract traditionally used in topical skincare for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and bruise-soothing properties, attributed to sesquiterpene lactones (notably helenalin) and flavonoids. It is commonly included in formulations targeting redness, irritation, and post-procedure skin recovery.
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract is derived from common ivy and contains saponins (notably hederacoside C and alpha-hederin) along with flavonoids. In topical skincare it is used for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and circulation-supporting properties, and is commonly found in anti-cellulite and soothing formulations.
Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially non-irritating; rare reactions relate to impurities or hardness minerals rather than water itself |
| Transepidermal water loss from excess evaporation | Uncommon | Water-heavy products without occlusives may evaporate and contribute to skin dryness in some individuals |
| Mild contact irritation | Rare | Occasional redness or stinging, usually in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated case reports; considered a low-sensitizing ingredient. |
| Comedogenicity / clogged pores | Rare | Generally low comedogenic potential, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Contact dermatitis / allergic sensitization | Very rare | Isolated reports; uncommon as it is generally considered low-allergenicity. |
| Comedogenicity (pore clogging) | Rare | Possible in acne-prone individuals due to its emollient ester nature, though considered low risk. |
| Comedogenicity / pore clogging | Uncommon | May contribute to clogged pores in acne-prone individuals depending on concentration and formulation. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely on broken or compromised skin or at high concentrations. |
| Redness or itching | Rare | Typically resolves after discontinuation. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water/Aqua/Eau Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent for water-soluble actives and as the continuous phase in emulsions. It is considered inert and non-active, providing hydration to the formula rather than direct therapeutic effect. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a solvent for oil-soluble ingredients. It is well-tolerated and serves primarily as a base ingredient rather than an active. |
| Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate Emollient/ester | Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is a fatty acid ester derived from 2-ethylhexanol and hydroxystearic acid, used as a skin-conditioning emollient and emulsifying co-agent. It imparts a smooth, non-greasy feel and helps disperse pigments in cosmetic formulations. |
| Stearic Acid Emulsifier / thickener | Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid widely used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and emollient to stabilize creams and lotions. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Aloe Barbadensis Extract Soothing/moisturizing agent | Aloe Barbadensis Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids used in skincare for its hydrating, soothing, and mild anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly incorporated into moisturizers, after-sun products, and soothing formulations. |
| Dimethicone Emollient/occlusive (silicone) | Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer used in skincare to soften skin, smooth texture, and form a breathable protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| PEG-8 Humectant / solvent | PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol 8) is a water-soluble polyether used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient that helps retain moisture and stabilize formulations. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient/emulsifier | Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol blend (cetyl and stearyl alcohol) used in skincare as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and keep oil and water phases blended in creams and lotions. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract Key active Antioxidant | Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract is a plant-derived extract rich in proanthocyanidins and polyphenols, used in skincare for its antioxidant and free-radical scavenging properties. It may help protect skin from oxidative and environmental stress. |
| Saccharide Isomerate Humectant / moisturizer | Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-derived carbohydrate complex that binds to the skin's keratin to provide long-lasting hydration and improve moisture retention. It is structurally similar to carbohydrates naturally found in the skin's upper layers. |
| Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Soothing / hydrating botanical extract | Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in moisturizers, masks, and after-sun products to help calm and refresh the skin. |
| Arnica Montana Flower Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory / soothing botanical | Arnica Montana Flower Extract is a plant-derived extract traditionally used in topical skincare for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and bruise-soothing properties, attributed to sesquiterpene lactones (notably helenalin) and flavonoids. It is commonly included in formulations targeting redness, irritation, and post-procedure skin recovery. |
| Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract Key active Botanical extract (anti-inflammatory/astringent) | Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract is derived from common ivy and contains saponins (notably hederacoside C and alpha-hederin) along with flavonoids. In topical skincare it is used for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and circulation-supporting properties, and is commonly found in anti-cellulite and soothing formulations. |
| Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in mucilage polysaccharides, flavonoids, and anthocyanins, used in skincare for its soothing, emollient, and antioxidant properties. It is typically included to calm irritation and provide a softening, hydrating effect on the skin. |
| Parietaria Officinalis Extract Soothing/botanical extract | Parietaria Officinalis (pellitory-of-the-wall) extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in cosmetics primarily for its purported emollient and skin-conditioning properties. It is not a clinically established treatment active and is more often included as a supplementary botanical component. |
| Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract Antioxidant/Soothing | Sambucus Nigra (elderflower) Flower Extract is a botanical derived from elderflower, used in skincare for its antioxidant, soothing, and mild astringent properties attributed to flavonoids and phenolic compounds. It is typically included as a supportive botanical rather than a primary active. |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate Key active Antioxidant / Vitamin C derivative | Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited. |
| Trehalose Humectant / moisturizer | Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide used in skincare as a humectant and protective agent, helping retain moisture and stabilize cell membranes and proteins against dehydration and oxidative stress. It is well tolerated and commonly used to support skin barrier hydration. |
| Algin Thickener/film-former | Algin (sodium alginate) is a polysaccharide derived from brown seaweed used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and film-forming agent. It helps stabilize emulsions and provides a hydrating, smooth texture, commonly featured in peel-off masks. |
| Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrating agent | Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is an enzymatically or chemically fragmented, low-molecular-weight form of sodium hyaluronate used in skincare to attract and bind water. Its smaller size allows better penetration into the upper layers of the skin compared to high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, supporting surface hydration and a smoother appearance. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.