Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid is a synthetic ingredient used in skincare to reduce facial redness and calm reactive or sensitive skin, in part by modulating histamine-related pathways. It is commonly incorporated into formulations aimed at soothing irritation and improving skin tolerance.
Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited.
Echinacea Purpurea Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is often included to support hydration and help calm irritated or stressed skin.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols such as rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is commonly added to help protect formulations and skin from oxidative stress.
Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, ellagic acid, vitamin C and anthocyanins, used in skincare for its antioxidant and soothing properties. It is typically included to help defend against oxidative stress and to condition the skin.
Fumaria Officinalis (common fumitory) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties, traditionally associated with soothing and brightening effects. It contains alkaloids, flavonoids, and fumaric acid derivatives.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially non-irritating; rare reactions relate to impurities or hardness minerals rather than water itself |
| Transepidermal water loss from excess evaporation | Uncommon | Water-heavy products without occlusives may evaporate and contribute to skin dryness in some individuals |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Reported as a contact sensitizer, particularly in patients with leg ulcers or stasis dermatitis; included in some patch-test series. |
| Skin irritation | Rare | Mild irritation or redness possible, generally in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Cross-reactivity with other fatty alcohols | Rare | Individuals sensitized to cetyl or stearyl alcohol may react to the blend. |
| Mild irritation or stinging | Rare | Transient irritation may occur, more often on compromised or sensitive skin. |
| Contact urticaria | Very rare | Isolated reports of immediate hives following topical exposure. |
| Mild transient stinging or tingling on application | Uncommon | Typically brief and resolves on its own, more likely on compromised skin |
| Localized redness or irritation | Rare | Generally reported as mild and reversible |
| Mild skin irritation or stinging | Uncommon | Occasional transient irritation, more likely on sensitive skin or at higher concentrations. |
| Comedogenicity / pore-clogging | Rare | As a lipophilic ester, it may theoretically contribute to breakouts in acne-prone individuals, though evidence is limited. |
| Pro-oxidant effect under certain conditions | Very rare | In vitro data suggest possible pro-oxidant activity when combined with UV exposure, but clinical relevance is unclear. |
| Photosensitivity | Rare | Possible increased sun sensitivity reported in some cases. |
| Cytotoxicity to skin cells in vitro | Rare | Reported in laboratory studies at high concentrations of lavender oil components; clinical relevance is limited. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water/Aqua/Eau Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent for water-soluble actives and as the continuous phase in emulsions. It is considered inert and non-active, providing hydration to the formula rather than direct therapeutic effect. |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient/emulsifier | Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol blend (cetyl and stearyl alcohol) used in skincare as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and keep oil and water phases blended in creams and lotions. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid Key active Anti-redness / soothing agent | Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid is a synthetic ingredient used in skincare to reduce facial redness and calm reactive or sensitive skin, in part by modulating histamine-related pathways. It is commonly incorporated into formulations aimed at soothing irritation and improving skin tolerance. |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate Key active Antioxidant / Vitamin C derivative | Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited. |
| Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Fragrance/soothing botanical extract | An aromatic plant extract derived from lavender flowers, leaves, and stems, used in skincare for its fragrance and purported soothing and antioxidant properties. It contains volatile compounds such as linalool and linalyl acetate. |
| Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Soothing / hydrating botanical extract | Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in moisturizers, masks, and after-sun products to help calm and refresh the skin. |
| Echinacea Purpurea Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant botanical | Echinacea Purpurea Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is often included to support hydration and help calm irritated or stressed skin. |
| Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant / botanical extract | Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols such as rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is commonly added to help protect formulations and skin from oxidative stress. |
| Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning extract | Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, ellagic acid, vitamin C and anthocyanins, used in skincare for its antioxidant and soothing properties. It is typically included to help defend against oxidative stress and to condition the skin. |
| Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract Antimicrobial/preservative booster | Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract is derived from a lichen and is valued in cosmetics for its usnic acid content, which provides antimicrobial, antibacterial, and mild antioxidant properties. It is often used to help control acne-causing bacteria, manage odor, or support natural preservation in formulations. |
| Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Key active Botanical extract (skin conditioning/antioxidant) | Fumaria Officinalis (common fumitory) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties, traditionally associated with soothing and brightening effects. It contains alkaloids, flavonoids, and fumaric acid derivatives. |
| Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory emollient | Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is derived from oat kernels and contains beta-glucans, avenanthramides, and polysaccharides that soothe, hydrate, and reduce irritation in the skin. It is widely used in products aimed at calming sensitive, dry, or eczema-prone skin. |
| Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Natural preservative | Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a fermentation-derived ingredient produced by culturing Leuconostoc bacteria on radish roots, yielding antimicrobial peptides used as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps protect water-based cosmetic formulations from microbial growth while sometimes contributing mild conditioning properties. |
| Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract Key active Astringent/brightening botanical extract | Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is derived from lemon fruit and contains citric acid, vitamin C, and flavonoids; it is used in skincare for its mild astringent, antioxidant, and brightening properties. It can act as a natural exfoliant and fragrance component. |
| Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract Key active Antioxidant / anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in gingerols and shogaols, valued in skincare for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used to help soothe skin, neutralize free radicals, and support a more even-toned, calmer complexion. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Fumaric Acid pH adjuster / exfoliant | Fumaric acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid used in skincare primarily as a pH adjuster and acidifier, and occasionally for mild keratolytic (exfoliating) effects. Its esters (fumarates) are more notably used systemically in conditions like psoriasis. |
| Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Conditioning/antistatic agent | Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is a phospholipid-derived quaternary ammonium compound used in skincare and haircare as a conditioning, antistatic, and mild emulsifying agent. It is valued for its skin- and hair-compatible, biomimetic structure that helps improve softness and reduce irritation potential. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Rheology modifier / emulsion stabilizer | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic crosslinked acrylic polymer used to thicken, gel, and stabilize emulsions in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps suspend ingredients and provides a smooth, consistent texture without acting as a treatment active. |
| Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/cleansing agent | Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate is a mild anionic surfactant derived from lauryl alcohol, used in cleansers, shampoos, and foaming products to provide gentle cleansing and foam. It is generally considered milder and less irritating than harsher sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate. |
| Propylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Propylene glycol is a small glycol molecule widely used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that helps attract water and dissolve other ingredients. It is considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Bisabolol Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory agent | Bisabolol is a naturally derived (typically from chamomile) or synthetic terpene alcohol used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is also reported to enhance penetration of other ingredients and offers mild antimicrobial activity. |
| PVP Film former / binder | PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) is a synthetic water-soluble polymer used in skincare and cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and viscosity adjuster, commonly found in hair styling products, mascaras, and some topical formulations. It forms a flexible film on the skin or hair surface to help hold and distribute other ingredients. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Cetrimonium Chloride Conditioning/antistatic agent | Cetrimonium Chloride is a quaternary ammonium compound used primarily as a conditioning, antistatic, and emulsifying agent in hair and skin care products, where it also provides mild preservative and surfactant properties. It helps reduce static, improve detangling, and stabilize formulations. |
| Glyceryl Caprylate Emollient / antimicrobial co-preservative | Glyceryl Caprylate is a monoglyceride derived from glycerin and caprylic acid, used in skincare as an emollient, moisturizing agent, and skin-conditioning component with mild antimicrobial properties that support preservation. It is commonly employed to help stabilize formulations and reduce reliance on conventional preservatives. |
| Aminomethyl Propanol pH adjuster / neutralizer | Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) is an alkaline organic amine used to adjust and buffer the pH of cosmetic formulations, commonly neutralizing acidic gelling agents like carbomers to thicken or stabilize products. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a skin-treatment active. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Disodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Potassium Sorbate Preservative | Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid, used as a mild preservative to inhibit mold, yeast, and some bacterial growth in cosmetic formulations. It is most effective at acidic pH and is often combined with other preservatives for broad-spectrum protection. |
| Sodium Benzoate Preservative | Sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative in cosmetic and skincare formulations to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and fungi, particularly in acidic products. It is most effective at a pH below 5. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.