Below is every ingredient in Kiehl S Ultra Facial Cream explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a glycoprotein-rich ferment derived from a marine bacterium found in Antarctic waters, used in skincare to support hydration, skin barrier function, and protection against environmental stress. It is valued as a humectant and conditioning agent that may improve skin smoothness and resilience.
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine is a phytosphingosine-derived lipid (a ceramide precursor/sphingolipid) used to support the skin's barrier function and replenish intercellular lipids. It is valued for moisturizing and barrier-restoring properties in leave-on formulations.
Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, largely attributed to compounds such as rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol. It is used in skincare to help protect against oxidative stress and may also serve as a natural preservative-boosting or astringent agent.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially inert; rare reactions are attributable to contaminants or accompanying ingredients rather than water. |
| Transepidermal water loss aggravation in compromised skin | Rare | Evaporation of water from products may transiently increase dryness in very compromised skin barriers if occlusives are absent. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Mild skin irritation or redness | Rare | Generally considered non-irritating; occasional mild reactions reported. |
| Clogged pores / comedogenic-related breakouts | Uncommon | Often anecdotal; dimethicone is largely regarded as non-comedogenic but may trap debris if skin is not cleansed well. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | True silicone allergy is exceptionally uncommon. |
| Eye irritation on accidental contact | Rare | Transient stinging or discomfort if product enters the eyes. |
| Mild irritation or stinging | Rare | Generally only with impure formulations or already compromised skin. |
| Acneiform breakouts / clogged pores | Rare | Low comedogenic rating, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive skin. |
| Contact allergy/sensitization | Very rare | Allergic contact dermatitis is uncommon; PEG-derived impurities are a theoretical sensitizer concern. |
| Eye irritation | Rare | Possible if product is applied near or gets into the eyes. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Aqua Solvent / vehicle | Aqua (water) is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves water-soluble components and forms the medium for emulsions. It has no direct treatment activity and primarily contributes to texture, spreadability, and product delivery. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Dimethicone Emollient/occlusive (silicone) | Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer used in skincare to soften skin, smooth texture, and form a breathable protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Squalane Emollient / occlusive moisturizer | Squalane is a saturated, stable hydrocarbon derived from squalene (sourced from plants like olives or sugarcane, or shark liver) used as a lightweight emollient that softens skin and reinforces the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss. It is well tolerated, non-comedogenic for most users, and serves as a base or carrier ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane Emollient/conditioning agent | Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a PEG-modified silane used in skincare and cosmetics primarily as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient that imparts a smooth, silky feel while improving spreadability of formulations. It is water-dispersible and commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and primers as part of the formulation base rather than as a therapeutic active. |
| Sucrose Stearate Emulsifier / surfactant | Sucrose Stearate is a sugar-based (sucrose ester) nonionic emulsifier and mild surfactant used to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It is generally considered gentle and well tolerated, functioning as a formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Stearyl Alcohol Emollient/emulsifier | Stearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in skincare as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickening agent to improve texture and prevent ingredient separation. It softens skin and helps maintain the consistency of creams and lotions. |
| PEG-8 Stearate Emulsifier / surfactant | PEG-8 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid used as a nonionic emulsifier and surfactant to blend oil and water phases in creams, lotions, and cleansers. It is a formulation ingredient that improves texture and stability rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Myristyl Myristate Emollient / thickener | Myristyl myristate is a waxy ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and opacifier. It improves skin feel, spreadability, and texture in creams, lotions, and color cosmetics. |
| Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived emollient rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids used to soften skin, reduce transepidermal water loss, and improve spreadability in formulations. It functions primarily as a base/carrier oil rather than a treatment active. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Persea Gratissima Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Persea Gratissima Oil (avocado oil) is a plant-derived lipid rich in oleic acid, fatty acids, and unsaponifiables that is used in skincare to soften, moisturize, and reinforce the skin barrier. It functions primarily as an emollient and occlusive base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier/emollient | Glyceryl Stearate is a glycerol ester of stearic acid widely used as a non-ionic emulsifier and emollient to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It functions as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Cetyl Alcohol Emollient / emulsifier | Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in skincare and cosmetics as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer. It softens skin and helps maintain the consistency and texture of creams and lotions. |
| Oryza Sativa Bran Oil Emollient / antioxidant | Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in fatty acids, vitamin E (tocopherols/tocotrienols), and oryzanol, used in skincare to soften and condition skin while providing antioxidant support. It primarily functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations. |
| Olea Europaea Fruit Oil Emollient / occlusive | Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (olive oil) is a plant-derived oil rich in oleic acid and minor antioxidants used to soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss. It functions primarily as an emollient and occlusive base ingredient in moisturizers and cosmetic formulations. |
| Chlorphenesin Preservative / antimicrobial | Chlorphenesin is a synthetic antimicrobial agent used in cosmetics and skincare as a preservative to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also occasionally used for its mild muscle-relaxant and antifungal properties in topical formulations. |
| Stearic Acid Emulsifier / thickener | Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid widely used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and emollient to stabilize creams and lotions. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Palmitic Acid Emollient / surfactant | Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly used in skincare as an emollient, emulsifier, and cleansing agent that helps soften skin and stabilize formulations. It is also a natural component of the skin's lipid barrier. |
| Carbomer Thickener / gelling agent | Carbomer is a synthetic high-molecular-weight polymer of acrylic acid used to thicken, stabilize, and control the viscosity of gels, creams, and lotions. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Rheology modifier / emulsion stabilizer | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic crosslinked acrylic polymer used to thicken, gel, and stabilize emulsions in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps suspend ingredients and provides a smooth, consistent texture without acting as a treatment active. |
| Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Chelating agent | Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, or HEDTA-type biodegradable chelator) is a biodegradable chelating agent used to bind metal ions in cosmetic formulations. By sequestering trace metals, it helps stabilize products, prevent discoloration and rancidity, and enhance the efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants. |
| Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (sweet almond oil) is a non-volatile plant oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids used to soften, soothe, and reduce transepidermal water loss in skincare formulations. It functions primarily as an emollient and occlusive base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Glycine Soja Oil Emollient / antioxidant | Glycine Soja (soybean) Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols, used in skincare as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It helps soften skin, support the moisture barrier, and provides mild antioxidant benefits. |
| Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract Key active Skin-conditioning / hydrating active | Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a glycoprotein-rich ferment derived from a marine bacterium found in Antarctic waters, used in skincare to support hydration, skin barrier function, and protection against environmental stress. It is valued as a humectant and conditioning agent that may improve skin smoothness and resilience. |
| Myristic Acid Surfactant/cleansing agent | Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly used in skincare as a cleansing and emulsifying agent, often reacted with alkalis to form soap-based surfactants. It contributes to foaming and texture in cleansers and other formulations. |
| Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine Key active Skin conditioning / barrier-repair agent | Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine is a phytosphingosine-derived lipid (a ceramide precursor/sphingolipid) used to support the skin's barrier function and replenish intercellular lipids. It is valued for moisturizing and barrier-restoring properties in leave-on formulations. |
| Salicylic Acid Key active Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant / keratolytic | Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin. |
| Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived emollient rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E, used to soften skin and support the skin barrier. It is widely used as a base oil in moisturizers and cosmetic formulations. |
| Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant / soothing botanical extract | Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, largely attributed to compounds such as rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol. It is used in skincare to help protect against oxidative stress and may also serve as a natural preservative-boosting or astringent agent. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.