Below is every ingredient in Sanctus 20Percent Vitamin C Face Serum explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a water-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to neutralize free radicals, inhibit melanin synthesis, and support collagen production. It is valued for brightening, evening skin tone, and protecting against photodamage when used alongside sunscreen.
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types.
Hamamelis Virginiana (witch hazel) extract is derived from the leaves, bark, and twigs of the witch hazel plant and is valued for its tannin content, providing astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in toners and after-shave products to tighten skin and reduce minor irritation.
Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin dryness or barrier disruption with excessive contact | Uncommon | Frequent or prolonged exposure to water, especially hot or hard water, can disrupt the skin barrier and contribute to transepidermal water loss. |
| Irritation from impurities or hard water minerals | Rare | Reactions are attributed to contaminants, chlorine, or mineral content rather than water itself. |
| Mild stinging or tingling on application | Common | More likely at higher concentrations or low pH, and on sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Transient redness (erythema) | Uncommon | Usually temporary and resolves after acclimation or reducing frequency. |
| Dryness or skin irritation | Uncommon | Can occur with frequent use or in combination with other actives. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | True hypersensitivity to ascorbic acid is infrequent; patch testing can confirm. |
| Yellow-orange skin staining from oxidized product | Rare | Caused by degraded (oxidized) formulations rather than the fresh active itself. |
| Mild skin irritation or stinging | Common | More likely at higher concentrations or on compromised/sensitive skin |
| Irritant contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Non-allergic irritation, often dose-dependent |
| Worsening of pre-existing eczema or barrier-impaired skin | Rare | Penetration-enhancing effect may increase reactivity |
| Systemic toxicity from topical use | Very rare | Reported mainly with extensive application on broken skin, especially in infants or burn patients |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Ascorbic Acid Key active Antioxidant / brightening active | Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a water-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to neutralize free radicals, inhibit melanin synthesis, and support collagen production. It is valued for brightening, evening skin tone, and protecting against photodamage when used alongside sunscreen. |
| Propylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Propylene glycol is a small glycol molecule widely used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that helps attract water and dissolve other ingredients. It is considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Sodium Citrate pH adjuster / chelating agent | Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid used in skincare primarily as a buffering agent to stabilize formulation pH and as a chelator that binds metal ions to improve product stability. It is a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Hyaluronic Acid Key active Humectant / hydrating agent | Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types. |
| Sodium PCA Humectant | Sodium PCA (sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid and a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It is widely used in cosmetics as a water-binding humectant to hydrate and soften the skin. |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Extract Key active Astringent/antioxidant | Hamamelis Virginiana (witch hazel) extract is derived from the leaves, bark, and twigs of the witch hazel plant and is valued for its tannin content, providing astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in toners and after-shave products to tighten skin and reduce minor irritation. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Sodium Benzoate Preservative | Sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative in cosmetic and skincare formulations to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and fungi, particularly in acidic products. It is most effective at a pH below 5. |
| Parfum Fragrance | Parfum (fragrance) is a blend of aromatic compounds added to cosmetic products to impart a pleasant scent or mask the base odor of other ingredients. It serves a sensory/formulation purpose rather than providing any skin benefit. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Disodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Solubilizer/emulsifier | PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a nonionic surfactant derived from hydrogenated castor oil reacted with ethylene oxide, widely used to dissolve fragrances and oils into water-based formulations and to stabilize emulsions. It functions as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder Soothing humectant | Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is a concentrated, water-soluble dried form of aloe vera leaf juice used in skincare for its hydrating, soothing, and mild antioxidant properties. It is commonly incorporated into gels, creams, and serums as a calming and moisturizing agent. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.