Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Biolumin C Gel Moisturiser explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations.
Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract is derived from chia seeds and is rich in omega-3 fatty acids (primarily alpha-linolenic acid), polyphenols, and mucilage. It is used in skincare to support the skin barrier, provide hydration, and contribute antioxidant activity.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic collagen-stimulating peptide that mimics the action of TGF-beta to support dermal collagen synthesis. It is used in topical formulations to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin firmness.
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids such as rutin and quercetin, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and capillary-strengthening properties. It is commonly included to help soothe skin and protect against oxidative stress.
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate is a stabilized vitamin C derivative combining ascorbic acid with an organosilicon (silanol) and pectin carrier, used in skincare for antioxidant protection and to support collagen synthesis and skin brightening. The silanol and pectin components are intended to improve stability and skin delivery compared to pure ascorbic acid.
Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin dryness or barrier disruption with excessive contact | Uncommon | Frequent or prolonged exposure to water, especially hot or hard water, can disrupt the skin barrier and contribute to transepidermal water loss. |
| Irritation from impurities or hard water minerals | Rare | Reactions are attributed to contaminants, chlorine, or mineral content rather than water itself. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | Documented in patch-test studies but considered a relatively weak sensitizer. |
| Redness or itching | Rare | Typically resolves after discontinuation. |
| Mild skin irritation | Uncommon | Possible at higher concentrations, particularly on sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Enhanced irritation from co-formulated actives | Uncommon | By increasing penetration, it may intensify the effects or irritation potential of other ingredients. |
| Eye irritation | Rare | Can occur with accidental contact in concentrated form. |
| Mild stinging or tingling on application | Common | Transient, often more noticeable at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. |
| Skin dryness or flaking | Common | Result of accelerated exfoliation, especially when overused. |
| Erythema (redness) | Common | Usually temporary; more pronounced with higher strengths. |
| Increased photosensitivity | Common | AHAs heighten UV sensitivity; daily sunscreen is advised. |
| Irritant contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Burning, itching, or persistent redness, often from overuse or high concentration. |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | Uncommon | More likely in darker skin tones following irritation. |
| Chemical burn or blistering | Rare | Associated with high-concentration peels or prolonged contact. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Ethoxydiglycol Solvent / penetration enhancer | Ethoxydiglycol (diethylene glycol monoethyl ether) is a glycol ether used in cosmetic formulations primarily as a solvent and viscosity reducer that helps dissolve active ingredients and improve their skin penetration. It is considered a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Lactic Acid Key active Chemical exfoliant (AHA) | Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations. |
| Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract Key active Emollient / antioxidant / skin-conditioning | Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract is derived from chia seeds and is rich in omega-3 fatty acids (primarily alpha-linolenic acid), polyphenols, and mucilage. It is used in skincare to support the skin barrier, provide hydration, and contribute antioxidant activity. |
| Sodium PCA Humectant | Sodium PCA (sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid and a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It is widely used in cosmetics as a water-binding humectant to hydrate and soften the skin. |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Key active Anti-aging peptide | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic collagen-stimulating peptide that mimics the action of TGF-beta to support dermal collagen synthesis. It is used in topical formulations to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin firmness. |
| Sophora Japonica Flower Extract Key active Antioxidant / soothing botanical extract | Sophora Japonica Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids such as rutin and quercetin, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and capillary-strengthening properties. It is commonly included to help soothe skin and protect against oxidative stress. |
| Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate Key active Antioxidant / Vitamin C derivative | Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate is a stabilized vitamin C derivative combining ascorbic acid with an organosilicon (silanol) and pectin carrier, used in skincare for antioxidant protection and to support collagen synthesis and skin brightening. The silanol and pectin components are intended to improve stability and skin delivery compared to pure ascorbic acid. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Key active Anti-inflammatory/soothing agent | Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a water-soluble salt derived from licorice root (glycyrrhizic acid) used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antioxidant properties. It is commonly added to formulations to calm irritation, redness, and sensitivity. |
| Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate Key active Vitamin C derivative (antioxidant/brightening active) | Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-supporting properties. It is designed to be more stable and less irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid while delivering similar benefits. |
| Trehalose Humectant / moisturizer | Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide used in skincare as a humectant and protective agent, helping retain moisture and stabilize cell membranes and proteins against dehydration and oxidative stress. It is well tolerated and commonly used to support skin barrier hydration. |
| Polyacrylate-13 Rheology modifier / thickener | Polyacrylate-13 is a synthetic acrylate copolymer used as a thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying agent in cosmetic formulations. It helps create stable gels and emulsions and improves product texture without contributing to active treatment effects. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil is a cold-pressed essential oil derived from grapefruit peel, used in skincare primarily for its fresh citrus scent and as a natural fragrance component. It contains limonene and other terpenes that contribute aroma but offer limited proven topical benefit. |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E used to soften skin and support the skin barrier. It functions as an emollient and occlusive agent in many cosmetic formulations. |
| Polyisobutene Emollient/film-former | Polyisobutene is a synthetic hydrocarbon polymer used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickener, and film-forming agent that imparts smooth texture, adhesion, and improved spreadability. It is commonly found in long-wear makeup, lip products, and sunscreens to enhance water resistance and product longevity. |
| Methylpropanediol Humectant/solvent | Methylpropanediol is a small glycol-type ingredient used in skincare as a humectant and solvent that helps hydrate skin and enhance the penetration of other actives. It also contributes to product texture and can support preservative efficacy. |
| Carrageenan Thickener/film-former | Carrageenan is a sulfated polysaccharide derived from red seaweed used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and stabilizing agent. It forms a hydrating film on the skin and helps stabilize emulsions and suspensions. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Glyceryl Polyacrylate Hydrating film-former / thickener | Glyceryl Polyacrylate is a cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and glycerin used in skincare to form a moisturizing film on the skin and to thicken or stabilize gel-based formulations. It functions primarily as a humectant and texture enhancer rather than as a treatment active. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Chelating agent | Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a biodegradable chelator that binds metal ions in cosmetic formulations, improving product stability and enhancing preservative efficacy. It is derived from glutamic acid and serves a formulation-support role rather than an active skin treatment. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Limonene Fragrance/solvent | Limonene is a naturally occurring monoterpene derived from citrus peel oils, commonly used as a fragrance component and solvent in cosmetic formulations. On exposure to air it oxidizes, forming compounds with greater sensitizing potential. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.