Below is every ingredient in Desqua Mate - AHA BHA PHA Serum | 2% Salicylic Acid Face Serum explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface, provides antioxidant and humectant benefits, and is often considered milder than alpha hydroxy acids. It is well tolerated, including by sensitive skin, due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration.
Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates by loosening corneocyte adhesion and boosts hydration, while potassium lactate (its salt) acts mainly as a humectant and pH buffer. Together they smooth skin texture, improve moisture retention, and gently promote cell turnover.
Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin.
Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations.
Piper Nigrum (black pepper) Fruit Extract is a botanical derived from black pepper, valued for its piperine content which can provide antioxidant, warming, and circulation-stimulating effects in topical formulations. It is sometimes included to enhance penetration of other actives or as a stimulating conditioning agent.
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the magnolia tree and contains bioactive lignans such as magnolol and honokiol. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mild transient stinging or tingling | Common | Brief sensation on application, particularly at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. |
| Mild erythema (redness) | Uncommon | Usually temporary and resolves shortly after use. |
| Dryness or flaking | Uncommon | Related to its exfoliating action, more likely with frequent use. |
| Increased sun sensitivity | Uncommon | PHAs are generally less photosensitizing than AHAs, but sunscreen is still advised. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | Hypersensitivity reactions are infrequently reported. |
| Transient stinging or tingling | Common | Especially at higher concentrations or lower pH on application. |
| Dryness or peeling | Uncommon | More likely with frequent or high-strength use. |
| Increased photosensitivity | Uncommon | AHAs can raise UV sensitivity; sunscreen advised. |
| Irritant or allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | More common in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Chemical burn | Very rare | Associated with very high concentration or prolonged contact misuse. |
| Mild skin irritation | Uncommon | Transient stinging or redness, more likely on compromised or sensitive skin. |
| Enhanced penetration of co-formulated irritants | Uncommon | As a penetration enhancer it may increase absorption and irritation potential of other actives. |
| Skin dryness and peeling | Common | Mild flaking or tightness, especially with frequent use or higher concentrations. |
| Stinging, burning, or irritation | Common | Transient sensation on application, often more pronounced on sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Erythema (redness) | Common | Temporary redness at the application site. |
| Contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Localized inflammation; can be irritant or, less often, allergic in nature. |
| Salicylism (systemic toxicity) | Rare | Reported with extensive application over large body areas, high concentrations, or occlusion; symptoms include nausea, tinnitus, and dizziness. |
| Severe allergic reaction | Very rare | Hypersensitivity reactions such as significant swelling or hives. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Gluconolactone Key active Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) exfoliant/humectant | Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface, provides antioxidant and humectant benefits, and is often considered milder than alpha hydroxy acids. It is well tolerated, including by sensitive skin, due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration. |
| Lactic Acid & Potassium Lactate Key active AHA exfoliant & humectant | Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates by loosening corneocyte adhesion and boosts hydration, while potassium lactate (its salt) acts mainly as a humectant and pH buffer. Together they smooth skin texture, improve moisture retention, and gently promote cell turnover. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Salicylic acid Key active Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant / keratolytic | Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Polysorbate- 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Octyldodecanol Emollient/solvent | Octyldodecanol is a branched fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, solvent, and skin-conditioning agent that improves spreadability and texture. It helps soften skin and dissolve other ingredients without functioning as a treatment active. |
| Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf oil Antimicrobial/fragrance | Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, commonly known as manuka oil, is an essential oil derived from the New Zealand manuka plant and is used in skincare for its antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. It is sometimes incorporated into formulations targeting acne or minor skin irritations, though it also contributes a characteristic aroma. |
| Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract Key active Skin conditioning / circulation-enhancing extract | Piper Nigrum (black pepper) Fruit Extract is a botanical derived from black pepper, valued for its piperine content which can provide antioxidant, warming, and circulation-stimulating effects in topical formulations. It is sometimes included to enhance penetration of other actives or as a stimulating conditioning agent. |
| Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory/antioxidant active | Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the magnolia tree and contains bioactive lignans such as magnolol and honokiol. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to soothe sensitive or irritated skin. |
| Aloe vera Extract Soothing humectant/emollient | Aloe vera extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild anti-inflammatory properties in skincare. It is commonly used to calm irritation and support skin barrier comfort. |
| Betaine Humectant / osmolyte | Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid derivative (trimethylglycine) used in skincare as a humectant and osmoprotectant that attracts and retains moisture while helping stabilize skin barrier function. It also improves the texture and mildness of formulations. |
| Tea Tree Oil Key active Antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory active | Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) is an essential oil with antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties, commonly used in topical formulations for acne and minor skin infections. Its main active component, terpinen-4-ol, is responsible for much of its antimicrobial activity. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Hydroxyethylcellulose Thickener/viscosity modifier | Hydroxyethylcellulose is a non-ionic, water-soluble cellulose derivative used to thicken, stabilize, and adjust the texture of aqueous cosmetic formulations. It functions as a gelling and film-forming agent rather than providing a direct biological skin benefit. |
| Sodium hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Preservative | A combination preservative system pairing DMDM Hydantoin, a formaldehyde-releasing antimicrobial, with Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, a broad-spectrum antifungal/antibacterial agent. Together they protect water-containing cosmetic formulations from microbial contamination. |
| Di Sodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent added to skincare formulations to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preservative efficacy, and preventing discoloration or rancidity. It is used in low concentrations as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Triethanolamine pH adjuster / emulsifier | Triethanolamine is an organic compound used in cosmetic formulations primarily to adjust pH and to act as an emulsifying agent, helping to stabilize mixtures of oil and water. It is typically present in small concentrations as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Vitamin E Acetate Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning agent | Vitamin E acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is a stable, esterified form of vitamin E used in skincare for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties. It is converted to active tocopherol in the skin, helping protect against oxidative stress and supporting the skin barrier. |
| Gluconolactone Key active Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) exfoliant/humectant | Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface, provides antioxidant and humectant benefits, and is often considered milder than alpha hydroxy acids. It is well tolerated, including by sensitive skin, due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration. |
| Lactic Acid & Potassium Lactate Key active AHA exfoliant & humectant | Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates by loosening corneocyte adhesion and boosts hydration, while potassium lactate (its salt) acts mainly as a humectant and pH buffer. Together they smooth skin texture, improve moisture retention, and gently promote cell turnover. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Salicylic acid Key active Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant / keratolytic | Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Polysorbate- 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Octyldodecanol Emollient/solvent | Octyldodecanol is a branched fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, solvent, and skin-conditioning agent that improves spreadability and texture. It helps soften skin and dissolve other ingredients without functioning as a treatment active. |
| Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf oil Antimicrobial/fragrance | Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, commonly known as manuka oil, is an essential oil derived from the New Zealand manuka plant and is used in skincare for its antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. It is sometimes incorporated into formulations targeting acne or minor skin irritations, though it also contributes a characteristic aroma. |
| Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract Key active Skin conditioning / circulation-enhancing extract | Piper Nigrum (black pepper) Fruit Extract is a botanical derived from black pepper, valued for its piperine content which can provide antioxidant, warming, and circulation-stimulating effects in topical formulations. It is sometimes included to enhance penetration of other actives or as a stimulating conditioning agent. |
| Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory/antioxidant active | Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the magnolia tree and contains bioactive lignans such as magnolol and honokiol. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to soothe sensitive or irritated skin. |
| Aloe vera Extract Soothing humectant/emollient | Aloe vera extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild anti-inflammatory properties in skincare. It is commonly used to calm irritation and support skin barrier comfort. |
| Betaine Humectant / osmolyte | Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid derivative (trimethylglycine) used in skincare as a humectant and osmoprotectant that attracts and retains moisture while helping stabilize skin barrier function. It also improves the texture and mildness of formulations. |
| Tea Tree Oil Key active Antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory active | Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) is an essential oil with antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties, commonly used in topical formulations for acne and minor skin infections. Its main active component, terpinen-4-ol, is responsible for much of its antimicrobial activity. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Hydroxyethylcellulose Thickener/viscosity modifier | Hydroxyethylcellulose is a non-ionic, water-soluble cellulose derivative used to thicken, stabilize, and adjust the texture of aqueous cosmetic formulations. It functions as a gelling and film-forming agent rather than providing a direct biological skin benefit. |
| Sodium hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Preservative | A combination preservative system pairing DMDM Hydantoin, a formaldehyde-releasing antimicrobial, with Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, a broad-spectrum antifungal/antibacterial agent. Together they protect water-containing cosmetic formulations from microbial contamination. |
| Di Sodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent added to skincare formulations to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preservative efficacy, and preventing discoloration or rancidity. It is used in low concentrations as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Triethanolamine pH adjuster / emulsifier | Triethanolamine is an organic compound used in cosmetic formulations primarily to adjust pH and to act as an emulsifying agent, helping to stabilize mixtures of oil and water. It is typically present in small concentrations as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Vitamin E Acetate Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning agent | Vitamin E acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is a stable, esterified form of vitamin E used in skincare for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties. It is converted to active tocopherol in the skin, helping protect against oxidative stress and supporting the skin barrier. |
| Indus Unknown/unverified ingredient | "Indus" is not a recognized standardized skincare or cosmetic ingredient name in dermatological or cosmetic-chemistry references such as INCI databases. Without a verified identity, its function, activity, and safety profile cannot be factually established. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.