Below is every ingredient in Desqua Mate - AHA BHA PHA Serum Refill (30ml) explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface, provides antioxidant and humectant benefits, and is often considered milder than alpha hydroxy acids. It is well tolerated, including by sensitive skin, due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration.
Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations.
Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin.
Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations.
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract is derived from the root of Sophora flavescens and is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to calm irritation and address sensitive or acne-prone skin. It contains alkaloids such as matrine and oxymatrine along with flavonoids.
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is a licorice-derived botanical extract rich in licochalcone A, valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and pigment-modulating properties. It is commonly used to calm sensitive or redness-prone skin and to support an even skin tone.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin dryness or barrier disruption with excessive contact | Uncommon | Frequent or prolonged exposure to water, especially hot or hard water, can disrupt the skin barrier and contribute to transepidermal water loss. |
| Irritation from impurities or hard water minerals | Rare | Reactions are attributed to contaminants, chlorine, or mineral content rather than water itself. |
| Mild transient stinging or tingling | Common | Brief sensation on application, particularly at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. |
| Mild erythema (redness) | Uncommon | Usually temporary and resolves shortly after use. |
| Dryness or flaking | Uncommon | Related to its exfoliating action, more likely with frequent use. |
| Increased sun sensitivity | Uncommon | PHAs are generally less photosensitizing than AHAs, but sunscreen is still advised. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | Hypersensitivity reactions are infrequently reported. |
| Mild stinging or tingling on application | Common | Transient, often more noticeable at higher concentrations or on compromised skin. |
| Skin dryness or flaking | Common | Result of accelerated exfoliation, especially when overused. |
| Erythema (redness) | Common | Usually temporary; more pronounced with higher strengths. |
| Increased photosensitivity | Common | AHAs heighten UV sensitivity; daily sunscreen is advised. |
| Irritant contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Burning, itching, or persistent redness, often from overuse or high concentration. |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | Uncommon | More likely in darker skin tones following irritation. |
| Chemical burn or blistering | Rare | Associated with high-concentration peels or prolonged contact. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Gluconolactone Key active Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) exfoliant/humectant | Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin surface, provides antioxidant and humectant benefits, and is often considered milder than alpha hydroxy acids. It is well tolerated, including by sensitive skin, due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration. |
| Lactic Acid Key active Chemical exfoliant (AHA) | Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations. |
| Potassium Lactate Humectant / pH adjuster | Potassium lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid used in skincare primarily as a humectant and moisturizing agent that helps maintain skin hydration and as a buffering agent to adjust formulation pH. It is a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Salicylic Acid Key active Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant / keratolytic | Salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates sebaceous pores to loosen and dissolve keratin and debris. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and conditions involving thickened or scaly skin. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Water Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in cosmetic formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves other ingredients and forms the bulk of emulsions and aqueous solutions. It is generally considered safe and non-irritating. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Sophora Flavescens Root Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Sophora Flavescens Root Extract is derived from the root of Sophora flavescens and is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to calm irritation and address sensitive or acne-prone skin. It contains alkaloids such as matrine and oxymatrine along with flavonoids. |
| Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory & brightening agent | Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is a licorice-derived botanical extract rich in licochalcone A, valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and pigment-modulating properties. It is commonly used to calm sensitive or redness-prone skin and to support an even skin tone. |
| Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Key active Antioxidant / soothing botanical | Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids such as baicalin, baicalein, and wogonin, valued in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly used to help calm irritation and protect skin against environmental oxidative stress. |
| Octyldodecanol Emollient/solvent | Octyldodecanol is a branched fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, solvent, and skin-conditioning agent that improves spreadability and texture. It helps soften skin and dissolve other ingredients without functioning as a treatment active. |
| Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil Antimicrobial/fragrance | Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, commonly known as manuka oil, is an essential oil derived from the New Zealand manuka plant and is used in skincare for its antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. It is sometimes incorporated into formulations targeting acne or minor skin irritations, though it also contributes a characteristic aroma. |
| Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract Key active Skin conditioning / circulation-enhancing extract | Piper Nigrum (black pepper) Fruit Extract is a botanical derived from black pepper, valued for its piperine content which can provide antioxidant, warming, and circulation-stimulating effects in topical formulations. It is sometimes included to enhance penetration of other actives or as a stimulating conditioning agent. |
| Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory/antioxidant active | Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the magnolia tree and contains bioactive lignans such as magnolol and honokiol. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to soothe sensitive or irritated skin. |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract Soothing/moisturizing agent | Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is derived from the aloe vera plant and is used in skincare for its hydrating, soothing, and mild anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly included as a supportive base ingredient rather than a primary treatment active. |
| Betaine Humectant / osmolyte | Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid derivative (trimethylglycine) used in skincare as a humectant and osmoprotectant that attracts and retains moisture while helping stabilize skin barrier function. It also improves the texture and mildness of formulations. |
| Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil Key active Antimicrobial/antiseptic | Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, commonly known as tea tree oil, is an essential oil with antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties often used in skincare to target acne and minor skin infections. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Hydroxyethylcellulose Thickener/viscosity modifier | Hydroxyethylcellulose is a non-ionic, water-soluble cellulose derivative used to thicken, stabilize, and adjust the texture of aqueous cosmetic formulations. It functions as a gelling and film-forming agent rather than providing a direct biological skin benefit. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| DMDM Hydantoin Preservative (antimicrobial, formaldehyde-releaser) | DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent microbial growth and extend shelf life. It works by slowly releasing small amounts of formaldehyde into the formulation. |
| Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Preservative | Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial preservative used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily to protect against fungal and bacterial contamination. It is typically used at very low concentrations within regulatory limits. |
| Disodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Triethanolamine pH adjuster / emulsifier | Triethanolamine is an organic compound used in cosmetic formulations primarily to adjust pH and to act as an emulsifying agent, helping to stabilize mixtures of oil and water. It is typically present in small concentrations as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Tocopheryl Acetate Key active Antioxidant | Tocopheryl acetate is a stable, esterified form of vitamin E used in skincare as an antioxidant and conditioning agent. It is converted to active tocopherol in the skin, helping protect against oxidative stress and supporting the skin barrier. |
| Parfum Fragrance | Parfum (fragrance) is a blend of aromatic compounds added to cosmetic products to impart a pleasant scent or mask the base odor of other ingredients. It serves a sensory/formulation purpose rather than providing any skin benefit. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.