Below is every ingredient in The Derma Co. X Dr V Skin Renew Peptide Under Eye Cream - 15 ml explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is a yeast-derived ferment liquid rich in amino acids, peptides, vitamins, and minerals used to hydrate, soothe, and condition skin. It is also valued for antioxidant and barrier-supporting properties in serums, essences, and moisturizers.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative used in skincare for antioxidant protection, brightening, and support of collagen synthesis. It converts to ascorbic acid in the skin and is valued for its greater stability compared to pure L-ascorbic acid.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a palmitoylated synthetic peptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily marketed to help reduce inflammatory signaling and support a more even, firmer skin appearance. It is commonly paired with other peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in anti-aging products.
Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide (beta-alanine and L-histidine) used in skincare for its antioxidant and anti-glycation properties, helping protect against oxidative stress and protein cross-linking associated with skin aging. It is typically incorporated into serums and creams at low concentrations as a supporting active.
Dipeptide-2 (valyl-tryptophan) is a synthetic dipeptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily in eye and anti-puffiness products, where it is claimed to help reduce fluid accumulation and improve the appearance of under-eye bags by supporting lymphatic drainage. Evidence is largely manufacturer-based, with limited independent clinical data.
Adenosine is a nucleoside that signals through cell-surface receptors to promote dermal fibroblast activity and collagen/elastin production, helping reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties at low concentrations commonly used in cosmetics (around 0.04-0.1%).
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Rare | Generally very well tolerated; minor irritation reported mostly on compromised skin |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated sensitization reports, uncommon for this ingredient |
| Redness or tingling | Rare | Typically resolves quickly after discontinuation |
| Mild transient stinging or tingling | Uncommon | Usually brief and resolves on its own, more likely on compromised skin. |
| Contact irritation or redness | Rare | Reported occasionally, particularly in sensitive individuals. |
| Mild skin irritation | Uncommon | Transient stinging or redness, more likely on compromised or sensitive skin. |
| Enhanced penetration of co-formulated irritants | Uncommon | As a penetration enhancer it may increase absorption and irritation potential of other actives. |
| Enhanced irritation from co-formulated actives | Uncommon | By increasing penetration, it may intensify the effects or irritation potential of other ingredients. |
| Eye irritation | Rare | Can occur with accidental contact in concentrated form. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Skin irritation or redness | Rare | Mild localized irritation reported infrequently, often related to formulation rather than the extract itself. |
| Saponin-related sensitivity | Very rare | Residual saponins from seed coats could theoretically cause mild irritation; well-processed extracts minimize this. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Betaine Humectant / osmolyte | Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid derivative (trimethylglycine) used in skincare as a humectant and osmoprotectant that attracts and retains moisture while helping stabilize skin barrier function. It also improves the texture and mildness of formulations. |
| Saccharomyces ferment filtrate Key active Conditioning/soothing ferment extract | Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is a yeast-derived ferment liquid rich in amino acids, peptides, vitamins, and minerals used to hydrate, soothe, and condition skin. It is also valued for antioxidant and barrier-supporting properties in serums, essences, and moisturizers. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Ethoxydiglycol Solvent / penetration enhancer | Ethoxydiglycol (diethylene glycol monoethyl ether) is a glycol ether used in cosmetic formulations primarily as a solvent and viscosity reducer that helps dissolve active ingredients and improve their skin penetration. It is considered a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract Skin conditioning / antioxidant | Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract is derived from quinoa seeds and is used in skincare for its content of proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidant phytochemicals. It functions primarily as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent and may help support the skin barrier. |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Key active Antioxidant / Vitamin C derivative | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative used in skincare for antioxidant protection, brightening, and support of collagen synthesis. It converts to ascorbic acid in the skin and is valued for its greater stability compared to pure L-ascorbic acid. |
| Xylitol Humectant / moisturizer | Xylitol is a sugar alcohol used in topical formulations as a humectant that helps attract and retain moisture in the skin, and it may support the skin's microbiome and barrier function. It is generally well tolerated and considered safe for topical use. |
| Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Thickener / stabilizer | Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic acrylic-based polymer used as a rheology modifier, thickening agent, and emulsion stabilizer in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps create smooth, stable gels and creams without contributing active treatment benefits to the skin. |
| Isohexadecane Emollient / solvent | Isohexadecane is a synthetic, branched-chain hydrocarbon (saturated isoparaffin) used as a lightweight emollient, solvent, and spreading agent in cosmetic formulations. It imparts a silky, non-greasy feel and helps disperse pigments and other ingredients. |
| Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Key active Anti-aging signal peptide | Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a palmitoylated synthetic peptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily marketed to help reduce inflammatory signaling and support a more even, firmer skin appearance. It is commonly paired with other peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in anti-aging products. |
| Carnosine Key active Antioxidant / anti-glycation agent | Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide (beta-alanine and L-histidine) used in skincare for its antioxidant and anti-glycation properties, helping protect against oxidative stress and protein cross-linking associated with skin aging. It is typically incorporated into serums and creams at low concentrations as a supporting active. |
| Dipeptide-2 Key active Peptide / lymphatic-circulation support | Dipeptide-2 (valyl-tryptophan) is a synthetic dipeptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily in eye and anti-puffiness products, where it is claimed to help reduce fluid accumulation and improve the appearance of under-eye bags by supporting lymphatic drainage. Evidence is largely manufacturer-based, with limited independent clinical data. |
| Adenosine Key active Anti-aging/soothing active | Adenosine is a nucleoside that signals through cell-surface receptors to promote dermal fibroblast activity and collagen/elastin production, helping reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties at low concentrations commonly used in cosmetics (around 0.04-0.1%). |
| Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 Key active Anti-edema / anti-puffiness peptide | Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is a synthetic peptide used in cosmetics primarily to reduce periorbital puffiness and improve skin elasticity by inhibiting angiotensin-converting enzyme activity and reducing fluid accumulation and glycation. It is commonly found in eye creams and anti-aging formulations. |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Key active Anti-aging peptide | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic collagen-stimulating peptide that mimics the action of TGF-beta to support dermal collagen synthesis. It is used in topical formulations to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin firmness. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer Humectant / hydrating agent | Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a chemically cross-linked form of sodium hyaluronate that forms a hydrated network, providing enhanced moisture retention and longer-lasting surface hydration compared to standard hyaluronic acid. It is widely used in moisturizers, serums, and masks to plump and smooth the skin surface. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate Humectant / moisturizer | Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is an acetylated, sodium-salt derivative of hyaluronic acid used in skincare for its enhanced moisture retention and improved skin adherence compared to standard hyaluronic acid. The acetyl modification increases lipophilicity, allowing better surface binding and prolonged hydration. |
| Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrating agent | Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is an enzymatically or chemically fragmented, low-molecular-weight form of sodium hyaluronate used in skincare to attract and bind water. Its smaller size allows better penetration into the upper layers of the skin compared to high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, supporting surface hydration and a smoother appearance. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Ceramide NP Skin-barrier replenishing lipid / emollient | Ceramide NP (formerly ceramide 3) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss and improving hydration. It is widely used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Ceramide AP Skin barrier lipid / moisturizer | Ceramide AP (ceramide 6-II) is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps restore and maintain the skin's barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss. It is commonly used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations, often combined with other ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. |
| Ceramide EOP Skin barrier lipid | Ceramide EOP is a long-chain omega-hydroxy ceramide that helps form and maintain the skin's lipid barrier, supporting moisture retention and reducing transepidermal water loss. It is commonly used in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations. |
| Phytosphingosine Key active Skin-conditioning agent / barrier-supporting lipid | Phytosphingosine is a naturally occurring sphingolipid that helps maintain the skin barrier and also exhibits antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly incorporated into moisturizers and barrier-repair formulations to support ceramide synthesis and skin integrity. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Phytosterols Emollient / skin-barrier conditioning agent | Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols structurally similar to skin cholesterol, used in skincare to support the lipid barrier, soften skin, and reduce transepidermal water loss. They function primarily as emollients and barrier-restorative agents with mild soothing properties. |
| Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine Emollient / liposome-forming emulsifier | Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a saturated phospholipid derived from lecithin, widely used in skincare to form liposomes and stabilize emulsions, enhancing delivery and skin penetration of other ingredients. It also supports the skin barrier due to its structural similarity to natural cell membrane lipids. |
| Sophora Flavescens Root Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Sophora Flavescens Root Extract is derived from the root of Sophora flavescens and is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often to calm irritation and address sensitive or acne-prone skin. It contains alkaloids such as matrine and oxymatrine along with flavonoids. |
| Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory & brightening agent | Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is a licorice-derived botanical extract rich in licochalcone A, valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and pigment-modulating properties. It is commonly used to calm sensitive or redness-prone skin and to support an even skin tone. |
| Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Key active Antioxidant / soothing botanical | Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids such as baicalin, baicalein, and wogonin, valued in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It is commonly used to help calm irritation and protect skin against environmental oxidative stress. |
| Sodium Levulinate Preservative / humectant | Sodium Levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid, derived from natural sugars, used primarily as a mild preservative and antimicrobial agent that also provides moisturizing properties. It is often paired with sodium anisate in natural-leaning preservative systems. |
| Potassium Sorbate Preservative | Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid, used as a mild preservative to inhibit mold, yeast, and some bacterial growth in cosmetic formulations. It is most effective at acidic pH and is often combined with other preservatives for broad-spectrum protection. |
| Beta Glucan Key active Hydrating soothing agent | Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide derived from sources such as oats, yeast, and mushrooms that functions as a humectant and skin-soothing ingredient. It supports hydration, helps reinforce the skin barrier, and has been studied for antioxidant and wound-healing properties. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Galacto Ferment Filtrate Key active Hydrating/conditioning ferment extract | Galacto Ferment Filtrate is a fermentation-derived liquid (often from yeast or lactobacillus on a galactose/milk substrate) used in skincare to provide humectant, conditioning, and skin-barrier-supporting benefits. It contains amino acids, organic acids, vitamins, and minerals produced during fermentation. |
| D-panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | D-Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin and acts as a humectant and emollient, helping retain moisture and support barrier repair. It is commonly included in skincare for its hydrating and soothing properties. |
| Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Rheology modifier / emulsion stabilizer | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic crosslinked acrylic polymer used to thicken, gel, and stabilize emulsions in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps suspend ingredients and provides a smooth, consistent texture without acting as a treatment active. |
| Euphrasia Officinalis Extract Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Euphrasia Officinalis (eyebright) extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its soothing, mild astringent, and antioxidant properties, often included in formulas targeting sensitive or irritated skin and the eye area. It contains flavonoids, tannins, and iridoid glycosides believed to contribute mild anti-inflammatory effects. |
| Retinol Key active Vitamin A derivative / anti-aging active | Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne. |
| Cyclodextrin Stabilizer / delivery carrier | Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide that forms inclusion complexes with hydrophobic molecules, used in skincare to stabilize, solubilize, and improve delivery of active ingredients while reducing odor and irritation. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a direct skin-active. |
| Retinal Key active Retinoid (vitamin A derivative) | Retinal (retinaldehyde) is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover, collagen synthesis, and improvement of fine lines, uneven tone, and acne. It is generally considered more potent than retinol but better tolerated than prescription retinoic acid. |
| Caffeine Key active Antioxidant / vasoconstrictor | Caffeine is a topical active used in skincare for its antioxidant properties and ability to constrict blood vessels, which may temporarily reduce puffiness and the appearance of under-eye darkness. It is also studied for reducing localized fluid retention and protecting against UV-induced oxidative stress. |
| Vitamin E acetate Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning agent | Vitamin E acetate (tocopheryl acetate) is a stable, esterified form of vitamin E used in skincare for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties. It is converted to active tocopherol in the skin, helping protect against oxidative stress and supporting the skin barrier. |
| Morus Alba Root Extract Key active Skin-brightening / antioxidant | Morus Alba (white mulberry) Root Extract is a botanical ingredient valued for its arbutin and flavonoid content, which inhibit tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production. It is commonly used in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, uneven tone, and dark spots, and also offers antioxidant benefits. |
| puffiness Not an ingredient (symptom/skin concern) | "Puffiness" is not a skincare ingredient but a skin concern referring to swelling or edema, commonly around the eyes, caused by fluid retention, allergies, sleep deprivation, or aging. Ingredients such as caffeine, peptides, and cooling agents are formulated to address it. |
| loss of firmness Not an ingredient — skin aging concern | "Loss of firmness" is not a skincare ingredient but a clinical/cosmetic descriptor for reduced skin elasticity and resilience, typically caused by declining collagen and elastin, intrinsic aging, UV exposure, and reduced fibroblast activity. It is a target concern addressed by various topical actives rather than a substance applied to the skin. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.