Below is every ingredient in Allies Of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble ethylated derivative of vitamin C that converts to ascorbic acid in the skin, providing antioxidant protection and supporting collagen synthesis and pigmentation control. It is valued for greater stability than pure L-ascorbic acid while delivering similar brightening and anti-aging benefits.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea extract) is derived from the leaves of the tea plant and is rich in polyphenols, particularly catechins like EGCG. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties.
Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity.
Astaxanthin is a red carotenoid pigment derived primarily from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, valued in topical skincare for its potent free-radical scavenging activity. It is studied for protecting skin against oxidative and UV-induced damage, supporting elasticity, and reducing signs of photoaging.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Skin irritation | Very rare | Pure water is essentially non-irritating; impurities or hardness minerals are more likely contributors than water itself. |
| Transepidermal water loss disruption | Rare | Repeated water exposure without occlusion may compromise the skin barrier in susceptible individuals. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically formulation-dependent. |
| Contact allergy/sensitization | Very rare | Rarely reported; acrylate polymers are generally considered low-sensitizing. |
| Sensation of tightness or dryness | Rare | May occur from the film-forming effect on some skin types. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Eye irritation | Common | May sting or irritate eyes on contact, relevant in rinse-off products like shampoos. |
| Disruption of skin barrier | Uncommon | Repeated exposure can strip natural lipids and impair the skin's protective barrier in sensitive individuals. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | Sensitization reactions are infrequently reported. |
| Skin or eye irritation | Uncommon | Generally mild; more likely at higher concentrations or in leave-on or sensitive-eye applications. |
| Mucosal or scalp stinging | Rare | Transient and typically resolves on rinsing. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Aqua (Water) Solvent/Base | Aqua (Water) is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves water-soluble ingredients and provides the medium for emulsions. It carries active and functional components and influences product texture. |
| Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer Film-former/rheology modifier | Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is a synthetic cross-linked acrylate polymer used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, thickener, and stabilizer. It helps form smooth, flexible films on the skin and improves the texture and stability of formulations. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate Anionic surfactant/cleansing agent | Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a synthetic anionic surfactant used as a cleansing and foaming agent in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers. It produces a rich lather and helps remove oil and dirt by lowering surface tension. |
| Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Amphoteric surfactant / cleansing agent | Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is a mild amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids, used in cleansers, shampoos, and body washes to provide gentle foaming, cleansing, and foam-boosting properties. It is often combined with primary surfactants to reduce overall irritancy. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester emollient derived from coconut-sourced fatty alcohols and caprylic/capric acids, used to provide a smooth, dry, non-greasy skin feel and to act as a silicone alternative. It functions primarily as a spreading agent and texture enhancer in lotions, creams, and sunscreens. |
| Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in linoleic acid used as an emollient and moisturizing agent in skincare. It helps soften skin, support the lipid barrier, and improve the texture and spreadability of formulations. |
| Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Mild amphoteric surfactant/cleansing agent | Sodium cocoamphoacetate is a coconut-derived amphoteric surfactant used in cleansers, shampoos, and body washes to provide gentle cleansing, foaming, and to reduce the irritation potential of harsher anionic surfactants. It is valued for its mildness and is commonly found in baby and sensitive-skin formulations. |
| Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a plant-derived emollient rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E, used to soften skin and support the skin barrier. It is widely used as a base oil in moisturizers and cosmetic formulations. |
| Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Natural preservative | Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a fermentation-derived ingredient produced by culturing Leuconostoc bacteria on radish roots, yielding antimicrobial peptides used as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps protect water-based cosmetic formulations from microbial growth while sometimes contributing mild conditioning properties. |
| Lactic Acid Key active Chemical exfoliant (AHA) | Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin by loosening bonds between corneocytes, promoting cell turnover, and acting as a humectant to improve hydration, texture, and tone. It is commonly used at concentrations ranging from low (hydration) to higher peel-strength formulations. |
| Glyceryl Ricinoleate Emollient/emulsifier | Glyceryl ricinoleate is a monoester of glycerin and ricinoleic acid (derived from castor oil) used as an emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps soften skin, stabilize emulsions, and improve product texture. |
| Zeolite Absorbent/detoxifying mineral | Zeolite is a porous aluminosilicate mineral used in skincare as an absorbent and adsorbent agent, helping to bind impurities, excess oil, and toxins while also serving as a mild exfoliant and texturizing agent in masks and cleansers. Some formulations promote its ion-exchange capacity for purifying and oil-control benefits. |
| Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil Emollient / antioxidant | Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in oleic acid and tocopherols used in skincare for its emollient, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties. It helps soften skin, reinforce the skin barrier, and may provide mild protection against oxidative stress. |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Key active Antioxidant / brightening vitamin C derivative | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, water-soluble ethylated derivative of vitamin C that converts to ascorbic acid in the skin, providing antioxidant protection and supporting collagen synthesis and pigmentation control. It is valued for greater stability than pure L-ascorbic acid while delivering similar brightening and anti-aging benefits. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Hydrolyzed Silk Conditioning agent / film-former | Hydrolyzed silk is a water-soluble protein derived from silk fibroin broken into smaller peptides and amino acids. It is used in skincare and haircare as a humectant and film-former that helps improve skin smoothness, hydration, and surface conditioning. |
| Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids Conditioning agent | Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids is a quaternized silk amino acid derivative used primarily as a substantive conditioning and moisturizing agent in hair and skin care formulations. It binds to keratin and damaged surfaces to improve softness, manageability, and moisture retention. |
| Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant | Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea extract) is derived from the leaves of the tea plant and is rich in polyphenols, particularly catechins like EGCG. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Lecithin Emollient / Emulsifier | Lecithin is a naturally occurring phospholipid (commonly derived from soybean or egg) used in skincare as an emulsifier, emollient, and penetration enhancer. It helps stabilize oil-and-water formulations and supports the skin barrier by mimicking natural lipids. |
| Astaxanthin Key active Antioxidant | Astaxanthin is a red carotenoid pigment derived primarily from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, valued in topical skincare for its potent free-radical scavenging activity. It is studied for protecting skin against oxidative and UV-induced damage, supporting elasticity, and reducing signs of photoaging. |
| Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Emollient / Skin-conditioning agent | Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are water-dispersible esters derived from jojoba oil, used to soften and condition the skin and to provide a smooth, non-greasy feel. They function primarily as an emollient and texture enhancer in cosmetic formulations rather than as a treatment active. |
| Tropolone Preservative/antimicrobial | Tropolone is a naturally occurring seven-membered aromatic compound with antifungal, antibacterial, and metal-chelating properties, sometimes studied as a preservative or bioactive agent in cosmetic formulations. It also exhibits tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, giving it potential skin-brightening relevance. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Lauryl Glucoside Surfactant/cleansing agent | Lauryl Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut/palm fatty alcohols and glucose, used as a mild cleansing and foaming agent in skin and hair care products. It is considered gentle and biodegradable, often replacing harsher anionic surfactants. |
| Sodium Gluconate Chelating agent / skin-conditioning | Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid used in skincare primarily as a chelating agent to bind metal ions and stabilize formulations, with secondary humectant and skin-conditioning properties. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Mild surfactant/cleansing agent | Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a gentle, amino-acid-derived anionic surfactant made from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid, commonly used in cleansers and shampoos for its mild, low-irritation foaming and cleansing properties. It is favored in skin-friendly and sulfate-free formulations due to its skin-compatible, near-physiologic pH profile. |
| Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate Surfactant/cleansing agent | Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate is a mild, glucose-derived anionic surfactant used in cleansers and personal care products to provide gentle cleansing, foaming, and emulsifying properties. It is often combined with Lauryl Glucoside in commercial blends and is considered low-irritant compared to traditional sulfate surfactants. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| 2-Hexanediol Humectant/preservative-booster | 1,2-Hexanediol (commonly written 2-hexanediol) is a multifunctional diol used in skincare primarily as a humectant, solvent, and preservative-enhancing agent that improves the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations. It is generally well tolerated and considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Disodium EDTA Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Sodium Benzoate Preservative | Sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative in cosmetic and skincare formulations to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and fungi, particularly in acidic products. It is most effective at a pH below 5. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.