Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Active Moist Face Moisturiser 50Ml explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Burdock (Arctium lappa) root extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often included to soothe irritation and support skin conditioning. It contains compounds such as inulin, polyphenols, and lignans.
Lemon (Citrus limon) extract or juice is used in skincare for its citric acid and ascorbic acid content, which provide mild exfoliation, antioxidant activity, and skin-brightening effects. However, its high acidity and photosensitizing compounds make it a poorly controlled, irritating ingredient compared to refined alternatives.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) is a widely used organic UVB-absorbing sunscreen agent that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation. It is commonly incorporated into sunscreens and daily cosmetics with SPF claims.
Hedera helix (ivy) leaf/stem extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in cosmetics for its purported anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and tonifying properties, often included in products marketed for reducing puffiness or improving skin tone. It contains saponins (hederacosides) and flavonoids that are believed to support microcirculation and skin conditioning.
Arnica Montana Flower Extract is a plant-derived extract traditionally used in topical skincare for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and bruise-soothing properties, attributed to sesquiterpene lactones (notably helenalin) and flavonoids. It is commonly included in formulations targeting redness, irritation, and post-procedure skin recovery.
Nasturtium Officinale (watercress) Flower/Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in vitamin C, carotenoids, and glucosinolates, used in skincare for its antioxidant and brightening-supportive properties. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent and is often included for its purported soothing and protective effects.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Uncommon | More likely in individuals sensitive to Asteraceae/Compositae family plants (e.g., ragweed, chrysanthemum). |
| Skin irritation or redness | Rare | Mild transient irritation reported in sensitive individuals. |
| Contact urticaria | Very rare | Isolated reports of hives following topical exposure. |
| Skin irritation and stinging | Common | Due to low pH and high citric acid content, especially on sensitive or broken skin. |
| Dryness and disruption of skin barrier | Common | Acidic pH can compromise the acid mantle with repeated use. |
| Phytophotodermatitis | Uncommon | Furocoumarins (psoralens) react with UV light, causing burns and hyperpigmentation on sun-exposed skin. |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | Uncommon | Especially in darker skin tones following irritation or photoreaction. |
| Chemical burns | Rare | Reported with undiluted application or prolonged contact. |
| Mild contact irritation | Rare | Occasional redness or stinging, usually in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Comedogenicity / clogged pores | Rare | Generally low comedogenic potential, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive skin |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely on compromised or sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations. |
| Skin dryness or tightness | Rare | Possible with high concentrations in leave-on products. |
| Redness or erythema | Uncommon | Typically mild and resolves after discontinuation. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Burdock Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical | Burdock (Arctium lappa) root extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, often included to soothe irritation and support skin conditioning. It contains compounds such as inulin, polyphenols, and lignans. |
| lemon Key active Brightening/exfoliant (citric acid + vitamin C source) | Lemon (Citrus limon) extract or juice is used in skincare for its citric acid and ascorbic acid content, which provide mild exfoliation, antioxidant activity, and skin-brightening effects. However, its high acidity and photosensitizing compounds make it a poorly controlled, irritating ingredient compared to refined alternatives. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a solvent for oil-soluble ingredients. It is well-tolerated and serves primarily as a base ingredient rather than an active. |
| Methyl Gluceth-20 Humectant/moisturizer | Methyl Gluceth-20 is a water-soluble humectant derived from glucose and methyl glucose, used to attract and retain moisture in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent and helps improve product texture and spreadability. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Dimethicone Emollient/occlusive (silicone) | Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer used in skincare to soften skin, smooth texture, and form a breathable protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Lactamide Mea Humectant/moisturizer | Lactamide MEA (lactamide monoethanolamine) is a humectant and emollient derived from lactic acid, used in skincare and hair products to attract and retain moisture and improve product feel. It also functions as a conditioning agent and can enhance the texture and spreadability of formulations. |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Key active UV filter (UVB sunscreen) | Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) is a widely used organic UVB-absorbing sunscreen agent that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation. It is commonly incorporated into sunscreens and daily cosmetics with SPF claims. |
| Peg-100 Stearate Emulsifier/surfactant | PEG-100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid used as a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It functions as a formulation base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Emollient / emulsifier / thickener | Cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid are fatty alcohols and fatty acids used together to emulsify, thicken, and soften cosmetic formulations. They function as base/texture ingredients rather than therapeutic actives, helping stabilize oil-and-water mixtures and impart a smooth feel. |
| Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier/emollient | Glyceryl Stearate is a glycerol ester of stearic acid widely used as a non-ionic emulsifier and emollient to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It functions as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract Soothing/fragrance botanical extract | Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in skincare for its aromatic, antioxidant, and purported soothing properties. It contains volatile compounds such as linalool and linalyl acetate that contribute both fragrance and potential skin-reactive effects. |
| Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Soothing/skin-conditioning botanical extract | Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in mucilage and flavonoids used in skincare for its emollient, soothing, and humectant properties. It is generally included to calm irritation and improve skin comfort rather than as a primary therapeutic active. |
| Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory / botanical extract | Hedera helix (ivy) leaf/stem extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in cosmetics for its purported anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and tonifying properties, often included in products marketed for reducing puffiness or improving skin tone. It contains saponins (hederacosides) and flavonoids that are believed to support microcirculation and skin conditioning. |
| Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Soothing / hydrating botanical extract | Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in moisturizers, masks, and after-sun products to help calm and refresh the skin. |
| Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract Antioxidant/Soothing | Sambucus Nigra (elderflower) Flower Extract is a botanical derived from elderflower, used in skincare for its antioxidant, soothing, and mild astringent properties attributed to flavonoids and phenolic compounds. It is typically included as a supportive botanical rather than a primary active. |
| Arnica Montana Flower Extract Key active Anti-inflammatory / soothing botanical | Arnica Montana Flower Extract is a plant-derived extract traditionally used in topical skincare for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and bruise-soothing properties, attributed to sesquiterpene lactones (notably helenalin) and flavonoids. It is commonly included in formulations targeting redness, irritation, and post-procedure skin recovery. |
| Parietaria Officinalis Extract Soothing/botanical extract | Parietaria Officinalis (pellitory-of-the-wall) extract is a plant-derived ingredient used in cosmetics primarily for its purported emollient and skin-conditioning properties. It is not a clinically established treatment active and is more often included as a supplementary botanical component. |
| Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant / skin-conditioning botanical extract | Nasturtium Officinale (watercress) Flower/Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in vitamin C, carotenoids, and glucosinolates, used in skincare for its antioxidant and brightening-supportive properties. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent and is often included for its purported soothing and protective effects. |
| Arctium Lappa Root Extract Key active Antioxidant/soothing botanical extract | Arctium Lappa (burdock) root extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, inulin, and arctiin, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-conditioning properties. It is often included to help soothe irritation and support skin barrier function. |
| Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract Key active Antioxidant/astringent | Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, rosmarinic acid, and volatile oils, used in skincare for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and astringent properties. It is commonly included in toners, anti-aging, and oily/acne-prone skin formulations. |
| Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract Astringent / antioxidant / skin-conditioning | Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract is derived from lemon fruit and is used in skincare for its astringent, antioxidant, and brightening properties, owing largely to its vitamin C, citric acid, and flavonoid content. It is most often included as a toning or refreshing additive rather than a primary clinical active. |
| Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract Natural surfactant/cleanser | Saponaria Officinalis (soapwort) Leaf/Root Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in saponins that produce a mild, natural foaming and cleansing action. It is commonly used in cleansers, shampoos, and gentle formulations as a botanical surfactant and conditioning agent. |
| Silk Amino Acids Humectant / conditioning agent | Silk amino acids are a hydrolyzed protein derived from silk fibroin, providing a blend of amino acids that hydrate, condition, and form a smoothing film on skin and hair. They are commonly used in moisturizers and hair care to improve softness and water retention. |
| Glycolipids Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Glycolipids are lipid molecules linked to carbohydrate groups that help maintain the skin barrier and act as emollients and emulsifiers in cosmetic formulations. They support moisture retention and stabilize the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Natural preservative | Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a fermentation-derived ingredient produced by culturing Leuconostoc bacteria on radish roots, yielding antimicrobial peptides used as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps protect water-based cosmetic formulations from microbial growth while sometimes contributing mild conditioning properties. |
| Palmitoyl Peptide carrier / signaling agent | Palmitoyl refers to a class of fatty-acid-conjugated peptides (such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1) in which a palmitic acid chain enhances the lipophilicity and skin penetration of attached amino acid sequences. These ingredients are used to signal collagen synthesis and support skin barrier and anti-aging functions. |
| Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer Film-forming / conditioning agent | Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer is a cationic, starch-derived crosspolymer used in skincare and haircare to form a smoothing, moisture-retaining film and improve sensory feel. It functions as a conditioning, film-forming, and texture-enhancing ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Lecithin Emollient / Emulsifier | Lecithin is a naturally occurring phospholipid (commonly derived from soybean or egg) used in skincare as an emulsifier, emollient, and penetration enhancer. It helps stabilize oil-and-water formulations and supports the skin barrier by mimicking natural lipids. |
| Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract Key active Antioxidant | Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract is a plant-derived extract rich in proanthocyanidins and polyphenols, used in skincare for its antioxidant and free-radical scavenging properties. It may help protect skin from oxidative and environmental stress. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Cetyl Alcohol Emollient / emulsifier | Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in skincare and cosmetics as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer. It softens skin and helps maintain the consistency and texture of creams and lotions. |
| Polyquaternium-10 Conditioning/film-former | Polyquaternium-10 is a cationic cellulose-derived polymer used in skincare and hair care to provide conditioning, smoothing, antistatic effects, and to form a thin film on skin and hair. It is a formulation/texture ingredient rather than a biologically active treatment. |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Rheology modifier / emulsion stabilizer | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic crosslinked acrylic polymer used to thicken, gel, and stabilize emulsions in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps suspend ingredients and provides a smooth, consistent texture without acting as a treatment active. |
| Polysorbate 60 Emulsifier / surfactant | Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, used to blend oil and water phases and stabilize emulsions in creams and lotions. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Aminomethyl Propanol pH adjuster / neutralizer | Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) is an alkaline organic amine used to adjust and buffer the pH of cosmetic formulations, commonly neutralizing acidic gelling agents like carbomers to thicken or stabilize products. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a skin-treatment active. |
| Disodium Edta Chelating agent | Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind metal ions, improving product stability, preventing rancidity, and enhancing the efficacy of preservatives. It is a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Linalool Fragrance/masking agent | Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in lavender, coriander, and many other plants, used in skincare primarily as a fragrance component. It readily oxidizes upon exposure to air, forming sensitizing hydroperoxides. |
| Lavandula Hybrida Oil Fragrance/essential oil | Lavandula Hybrida Oil (lavandin oil) is an essential oil derived from a hybrid lavender plant, used in skincare primarily as a fragrance and aromatic agent. It contains volatile compounds such as linalool and linalyl acetate that can have antimicrobial properties but also potential to sensitize skin. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.