Below is every ingredient in Conscious Chemist The Defender Multi Peptide Retinol Anti Aging Night Cream explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a synthetic palmitoylated peptide (sequence Gly-His-Lys) used in cosmetics to signal fibroblasts and support collagen and extracellular matrix synthesis. It is commonly combined with other peptides in anti-aging and firming formulations.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a palmitoylated synthetic peptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily marketed to help reduce inflammatory signaling and support a more even, firmer skin appearance. It is commonly paired with other peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in anti-aging products.
SH-Oligopeptide-1 is a synthetic version of human epidermal growth factor (EGF) used in skincare to support cell proliferation, wound healing, and signs of skin repair and rejuvenation. It is typically incorporated into anti-aging and post-procedure formulations at low concentrations.
SH-Oligopeptide-2 is a synthetic peptide corresponding to insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), used in cosmetic formulations to support cell proliferation, skin repair, and anti-aging effects. It is typically incorporated into serums and creams aimed at improving skin texture and firmness.
SH-Polypeptide-1 is a synthetic or recombinant form of basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF/FGF-2) used in skincare to stimulate fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis, and skin repair. It is typically included in anti-aging and wound-healing formulations to support dermal regeneration.
SH-Polypeptide-9 is a synthetic form of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) used in cosmetics to support skin repair, angiogenesis-related processes, and overall skin rejuvenation. It is typically incorporated into anti-aging and recovery formulations to promote tissue regeneration.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially inert; rare reactions are attributable to contaminants or accompanying ingredients rather than water. |
| Transepidermal water loss aggravation in compromised skin | Rare | Evaporation of water from products may transiently increase dryness in very compromised skin barriers if occlusives are absent. |
| Mild transient skin irritation or redness | Uncommon | Generally mild and resolves after discontinuation; often related to formulation rather than the peptide itself. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic sensitization | Rare | Isolated reports; patch testing may be warranted in sensitive individuals. |
| Stinging or tingling on application | Rare | Usually temporary and associated with compromised skin barrier. |
| Mild transient irritation or redness | Rare | Generally well tolerated; localized irritation may occur, often related to other formulation components. |
| Contact sensitization or allergic dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated reports; peptides are considered low-allergenicity but sensitization remains possible. |
| Stinging on application | Rare | Usually mild and short-lived, more likely on compromised or sensitive skin. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, generally in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Contact dermatitis / allergic reaction | Very rare | Isolated reports; non-ionic emulsifiers are generally low-sensitizing. |
| Comedogenicity (pore clogging) | Rare | Possible in acne-prone individuals depending on formulation concentration. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated sensitization reports; generally regarded as low-risk. |
| Skin irritation | Rare | Mild irritation or redness possible, generally in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Cross-reactivity with other fatty alcohols | Rare | Individuals sensitized to cetyl or stearyl alcohol may react to the blend. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Aqua Solvent / vehicle | Aqua (water) is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves water-soluble components and forms the medium for emulsions. It has no direct treatment activity and primarily contributes to texture, spreadability, and product delivery. |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Key active Signal peptide / anti-aging active | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a synthetic palmitoylated peptide (sequence Gly-His-Lys) used in cosmetics to signal fibroblasts and support collagen and extracellular matrix synthesis. It is commonly combined with other peptides in anti-aging and firming formulations. |
| Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Key active Anti-aging signal peptide | Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a palmitoylated synthetic peptide used in cosmetic formulations, primarily marketed to help reduce inflammatory signaling and support a more even, firmer skin appearance. It is commonly paired with other peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in anti-aging products. |
| Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters Emulsifier / emollient | Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters is a polyglycerol ester derived from olive oil used primarily as a non-ionic emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent in creams and lotions. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions while providing a softening, conditioning effect on the skin. |
| Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Emulsifier | Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is a lactic acid and stearic acid–derived anionic emulsifier used to blend oil and water phases and stabilize formulations. It also offers mild conditioning and skin-softening properties. |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient/emulsifier | Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol blend (cetyl and stearyl alcohol) used in skincare as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and keep oil and water phases blended in creams and lotions. |
| Cetyl Alcohol Emollient / emulsifier | Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in skincare and cosmetics as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer. It softens skin and helps maintain the consistency and texture of creams and lotions. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a solvent for oil-soluble ingredients. It is well-tolerated and serves primarily as a base ingredient rather than an active. |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE Emulsifier / emollient | Glyceryl Stearate SE is a self-emulsifying form of glyceryl stearate used to blend oil and water phases in creams and lotions, also providing a softening, conditioning effect on skin. It functions as a formulation base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Lecithin Emollient / Emulsifier | Lecithin is a naturally occurring phospholipid (commonly derived from soybean or egg) used in skincare as an emulsifier, emollient, and penetration enhancer. It helps stabilize oil-and-water formulations and supports the skin barrier by mimicking natural lipids. |
| Acetyl Glutamine Humectant / amino acid derivative | Acetyl Glutamine is an acetylated form of the amino acid glutamine used in skincare as a humectant and conditioning agent. It helps support skin hydration and the skin barrier, and is generally considered a mild, well-tolerated ingredient. |
| SH-Oligopeptide-1 Key active Growth factor / cell-signaling peptide | SH-Oligopeptide-1 is a synthetic version of human epidermal growth factor (EGF) used in skincare to support cell proliferation, wound healing, and signs of skin repair and rejuvenation. It is typically incorporated into anti-aging and post-procedure formulations at low concentrations. |
| SH-Oligopeptide-2 Key active Cell-communicating peptide / signaling growth factor analog | SH-Oligopeptide-2 is a synthetic peptide corresponding to insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), used in cosmetic formulations to support cell proliferation, skin repair, and anti-aging effects. It is typically incorporated into serums and creams aimed at improving skin texture and firmness. |
| SH-Polypeptide-1 Key active Growth factor (signaling peptide) | SH-Polypeptide-1 is a synthetic or recombinant form of basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF/FGF-2) used in skincare to stimulate fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis, and skin repair. It is typically included in anti-aging and wound-healing formulations to support dermal regeneration. |
| SH-Polypeptide-9 Key active Growth factor / signaling peptide | SH-Polypeptide-9 is a synthetic form of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) used in cosmetics to support skin repair, angiogenesis-related processes, and overall skin rejuvenation. It is typically incorporated into anti-aging and recovery formulations to promote tissue regeneration. |
| SH-Polypeptide-11 Key active Bioactive peptide / cell-signaling agent | SH-Polypeptide-11 is a synthetic recombinant growth factor peptide (related to vascular endothelial growth factor signaling) used in cosmetic formulations to support skin renewal, repair, and microcirculation. It is included in anti-aging and skin-conditioning products for its proposed role in stimulating cellular activity and barrier recovery. |
| Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract Key active Skin conditioning / moisturizing humectant | Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract is a fermentation-derived ingredient produced by culturing soybeans with Bacillus species, yielding peptides, amino acids, and polysaccharides (including polyglutamic acid). It is used in skincare primarily for its hydrating, conditioning, and skin-soothing properties. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Sclerocarya birrea (marula) seed oil is a plant-derived lipid rich in oleic acid and antioxidants, used to soften, moisturize, and improve the feel of skin in cosmetic formulations. It functions primarily as an occlusive and emollient base ingredient rather than a targeted therapeutic active. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Hydroxycinnamic Acid Key active Antioxidant | Hydroxycinnamic acid is a phenolic compound (the parent of derivatives like ferulic, caffeic, and p-coumaric acids) used in skincare for its antioxidant and free-radical scavenging properties. It is often incorporated to help protect against oxidative and UV-induced skin damage. |
| Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Emollient / skin-conditioning oil | Adansonia Digitata (baobab) Seed Oil is a plant-derived oil rich in fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, palmitic) and tocopherols, used to moisturize, soften, and improve skin barrier function. It functions primarily as an emollient and occlusive base ingredient in skincare formulations. |
| Lysolecithin Emulsifier / penetration enhancer | Lysolecithin is a hydrolyzed form of lecithin used in skincare primarily as an emulsifier and delivery agent that helps blend oil and water phases and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients. It is generally well tolerated and functions as a formulation/base ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Hyaluronic Acid Key active Humectant / hydrating agent | Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types. |
| Dimethicone Emollient/occlusive (silicone) | Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer used in skincare to soften skin, smooth texture, and form a breathable protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Arginine Amino acid / pH adjuster & conditioning agent | Arginine is a basic amino acid used in skincare primarily as a pH buffer/neutralizer and humectant-like conditioning agent that supports skin hydration and barrier function. It is generally well tolerated and often paired with acidic ingredients to balance formulation pH. |
| Linolenic Acid Key active Skin-conditioning / barrier-repair fatty acid | Linolenic acid is an omega-3 polyunsaturated essential fatty acid used in skincare to support the skin's lipid barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss, and provide emollient and soothing benefits. It is also studied for mild anti-inflammatory and comedolytic effects. |
| Caffeine Key active Antioxidant / vasoconstrictor | Caffeine is a topical active used in skincare for its antioxidant properties and ability to constrict blood vessels, which may temporarily reduce puffiness and the appearance of under-eye darkness. It is also studied for reducing localized fluid retention and protecting against UV-induced oxidative stress. |
| Sodium Lactate Humectant / NMF component | Sodium lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid and a key component of skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), used to hydrate the skin and buffer formulation pH. It also has mild exfoliating and humectant properties that help maintain skin moisture and barrier function. |
| Polyurethane Crosspolymer-1 Film former / texture agent | Polyurethane Crosspolymer-1 is a synthetic crosslinked polymer used in cosmetic formulations primarily as a film-forming and viscosity/texture modifier. It helps create smooth, even films on skin, improving spreadability, wear, and sensory feel without providing a biological treatment effect. |
| Retinol Key active Vitamin A derivative / anti-aging active | Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne. |
| Polyvinyl Alcohol Film-forming agent / viscosity modifier | Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is a synthetic, water-soluble polymer commonly used in peel-off masks and as a film-forming, thickening, and binding agent in cosmetic formulations. It dries to form a flexible film on the skin that can be peeled away, often used for texture and adhesive properties rather than therapeutic effect. |
| Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract Key active Soothing / brightening agent | Glycyrrhiza Glabra (licorice) Root Extract is a botanical ingredient containing glycyrrhizin and glabridin, valued for its anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties. It is commonly used to calm irritation, reduce redness, and help fade hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. |
| Tocopheryl Acetate Key active Antioxidant | Tocopheryl acetate is a stable, esterified form of vitamin E used in skincare as an antioxidant and conditioning agent. It is converted to active tocopherol in the skin, helping protect against oxidative stress and supporting the skin barrier. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Benzyl Alcohol Preservative / solvent | Benzyl alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used primarily as a preservative and solvent in cosmetic formulations, and it also provides mild fragrance and viscosity-reducing properties. It is approved for use as a preservative at concentrations up to about 1% in leave-on and rinse-off products. |
| Glyceryl Laurate Emulsifier / emollient / antimicrobial | Glyceryl laurate (glyceryl monolaurate) is a glycerol ester of lauric acid used in cosmetics as a non-ionic emulsifier, emollient, and surfactant, with mild antimicrobial properties that can support preservative systems. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Sodium Gluconate Chelating agent / skin-conditioning | Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid used in skincare primarily as a chelating agent to bind metal ions and stabilize formulations, with secondary humectant and skin-conditioning properties. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Melanin Key active Pigment / photoprotective antioxidant | Melanin is a natural biological pigment responsible for skin, hair, and eye coloration, providing protection against UV radiation by absorbing and scattering harmful rays. In topical formulations it is studied for its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.