Below is every ingredient in Dermalogica Active Moist Face Moisturiser With Lemon Cucumber Burdock explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Arctium Lappa (burdock) root extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, inulin, and arctiin, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-conditioning properties. It is often included to help soothe irritation and support skin barrier function.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is derived from lemon fruit and contains citric acid, vitamin C, and flavonoids; it is used in skincare for its mild astringent, antioxidant, and brightening properties. It can act as a natural exfoliant and fragrance component.
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract is derived from common ivy and contains saponins (notably hederacoside C and alpha-hederin) along with flavonoids. In topical skincare it is used for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and circulation-supporting properties, and is commonly found in anti-cellulite and soothing formulations.
Nasturtium Officinale (watercress) Extract is a botanical ingredient rich in vitamin C, glucosinolates, and flavonoids, used in skincare for its antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. It is also valued for purported soothing and detoxifying effects in topical formulations.
Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids, vitamin C, and citric acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and mild astringent properties. It is often included for toning and as a natural fragrance or freshening agent.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially non-irritating; rare reactions relate to impurities or hardness minerals rather than water itself |
| Transepidermal water loss from excess evaporation | Uncommon | Water-heavy products without occlusives may evaporate and contribute to skin dryness in some individuals |
| Mild contact irritation | Rare | Occasional redness or stinging, usually in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Very rare | Isolated case reports; considered a low-sensitizing ingredient. |
| Comedogenicity / clogged pores | Rare | Generally low comedogenic potential, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely on compromised or sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations. |
| Skin dryness or tightness | Rare | Possible with high concentrations in leave-on products. |
| Redness or erythema | Uncommon | Typically mild and resolves after discontinuation. |
| Redness or itching | Rare | Typically resolves after discontinuation. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive skin |
| Comedogenicity / breakouts | Rare | Generally considered low comedogenic risk, but acne-prone individuals may occasionally react. |
| Skin irritation | Rare | Mild irritation or redness possible, generally in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Cross-reactivity with other fatty alcohols | Rare | Individuals sensitized to cetyl or stearyl alcohol may react to the blend. |
| Contact allergy / dermatitis | Rare | Allergic sensitization is infrequently reported. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Water/Aqua/Eau Solvent/vehicle | Water is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent for water-soluble actives and as the continuous phase in emulsions. It is considered inert and non-active, providing hydration to the formula rather than direct therapeutic effect. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a solvent for oil-soluble ingredients. It is well-tolerated and serves primarily as a base ingredient rather than an active. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| Methyl Gluceth-20 Humectant/moisturizer | Methyl Gluceth-20 is a water-soluble humectant derived from glucose and methyl glucose, used to attract and retain moisture in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent and helps improve product texture and spreadability. |
| Coconut Alkanes Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Coconut Alkanes is a lightweight, plant-derived emollient (often paired with Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) used to soften skin and provide a silky, non-greasy slip in formulations. It serves as a natural alternative to silicones and mineral oils. |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient/emulsifier | Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol blend (cetyl and stearyl alcohol) used in skincare as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and keep oil and water phases blended in creams and lotions. |
| Palmitic Acid Emollient / surfactant | Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly used in skincare as an emollient, emulsifier, and cleansing agent that helps soften skin and stabilize formulations. It is also a natural component of the skin's lipid barrier. |
| Stearic Acid Emulsifier / thickener | Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid widely used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and emollient to stabilize creams and lotions. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Saccharide Isomerate Humectant / moisturizer | Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-derived carbohydrate complex that binds to the skin's keratin to provide long-lasting hydration and improve moisture retention. It is structurally similar to carbohydrates naturally found in the skin's upper layers. |
| Dimethicone Emollient/occlusive (silicone) | Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer used in skincare to soften skin, smooth texture, and form a breathable protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier/emollient | Glyceryl Stearate is a glycerol ester of stearic acid widely used as a non-ionic emulsifier and emollient to stabilize oil-in-water formulations and improve skin feel. It functions as a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Emollient / Skin-conditioning agent | Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are water-dispersible esters derived from jojoba oil, used to soften and condition the skin and to provide a smooth, non-greasy feel. They function primarily as an emollient and texture enhancer in cosmetic formulations rather than as a treatment active. |
| Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Natural preservative | Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a fermentation-derived ingredient produced by culturing Leuconostoc bacteria on radish roots, yielding antimicrobial peptides used as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps protect water-based cosmetic formulations from microbial growth while sometimes contributing mild conditioning properties. |
| Arctium Lappa Root Extract Key active Antioxidant/soothing botanical extract | Arctium Lappa (burdock) root extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in polyphenols, inulin, and arctiin, used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-conditioning properties. It is often included to help soothe irritation and support skin barrier function. |
| Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract Key active Astringent/brightening botanical extract | Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is derived from lemon fruit and contains citric acid, vitamin C, and flavonoids; it is used in skincare for its mild astringent, antioxidant, and brightening properties. It can act as a natural exfoliant and fragrance component. |
| Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Soothing / hydrating botanical extract | Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a plant-derived ingredient valued for its hydrating, soothing, and mild antioxidant properties. It is commonly used in moisturizers, masks, and after-sun products to help calm and refresh the skin. |
| Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract Key active Botanical extract (anti-inflammatory/astringent) | Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract is derived from common ivy and contains saponins (notably hederacoside C and alpha-hederin) along with flavonoids. In topical skincare it is used for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and circulation-supporting properties, and is commonly found in anti-cellulite and soothing formulations. |
| Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract Soothing/anti-inflammatory botanical extract | Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in mucilage polysaccharides, flavonoids, and anthocyanins, used in skincare for its soothing, emollient, and antioxidant properties. It is typically included to calm irritation and provide a softening, hydrating effect on the skin. |
| Nasturtium Officinale Extract Key active Antioxidant / skin conditioning | Nasturtium Officinale (watercress) Extract is a botanical ingredient rich in vitamin C, glucosinolates, and flavonoids, used in skincare for its antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. It is also valued for purported soothing and detoxifying effects in topical formulations. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Polysorbate 60 Emulsifier / surfactant | Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, used to blend oil and water phases and stabilize emulsions in creams and lotions. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Rheology modifier / emulsion stabilizer | Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic crosslinked acrylic polymer used to thicken, gel, and stabilize emulsions in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps suspend ingredients and provides a smooth, consistent texture without acting as a treatment active. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Chelating agent | Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a biodegradable chelator that binds metal ions in cosmetic formulations, improving product stability and enhancing preservative efficacy. It is derived from glutamic acid and serves a formulation-support role rather than an active skin treatment. |
| Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester emollient derived from coconut-sourced fatty alcohols and caprylic/capric acids, used to provide a smooth, dry, non-greasy skin feel and to act as a silicone alternative. It functions primarily as a spreading agent and texture enhancer in lotions, creams, and sunscreens. |
| Polyquaternium-10 Conditioning/film-former | Polyquaternium-10 is a cationic cellulose-derived polymer used in skincare and hair care to provide conditioning, smoothing, antistatic effects, and to form a thin film on skin and hair. It is a formulation/texture ingredient rather than a biologically active treatment. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Triethyl Citrate Antimicrobial / emollient / chelating agent | Triethyl citrate is a citric acid ester used in cosmetics as a solvent, plasticizer, and skin-conditioning agent, and it is valued in deodorants for its ability to inhibit odor-causing bacterial enzymes. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Myristic Acid Surfactant/cleansing agent | Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly used in skincare as a cleansing and emulsifying agent, often reacted with alkalis to form soap-based surfactants. It contributes to foaming and texture in cleansers and other formulations. |
| Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract Fragrance/antioxidant | Bergamot fruit extract is a citrus-derived ingredient used in skincare for its aromatic, antioxidant, and skin-conditioning properties. It contains bioactive compounds such as flavonoids and furocoumarins (e.g., bergapten) that can have both beneficial and photosensitizing effects. |
| Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract Key active Antioxidant/astringent botanical extract | Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in flavonoids, vitamin C, and citric acid, used in skincare for its antioxidant, brightening, and mild astringent properties. It is often included for toning and as a natural fragrance or freshening agent. |
| Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Fragrance/soothing botanical extract | An aromatic plant extract derived from lavender flowers, leaves, and stems, used in skincare for its fragrance and purported soothing and antioxidant properties. It contains volatile compounds such as linalool and linalyl acetate. |
| Lavandula Hybrida Flower Extract Fragrance/botanical extract | Lavandula Hybrida (lavandin) Flower Extract is a botanical derived from a lavender hybrid, used primarily as a fragrance and aromatic agent with mild antioxidant and soothing claims. It contains volatile compounds such as linalool and linalyl acetate. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Sodium Citrate pH adjuster / chelating agent | Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid used in skincare primarily as a buffering agent to stabilize formulation pH and as a chelator that binds metal ions to improve product stability. It is a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster | Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong alkaline compound used in small amounts to adjust and stabilize the pH of cosmetic formulations. At regulated low concentrations in finished products it is considered safe, though it is corrosive in concentrated form. |
| Aminomethyl Propanol pH adjuster / neutralizer | Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) is an alkaline organic amine used to adjust and buffer the pH of cosmetic formulations, commonly neutralizing acidic gelling agents like carbomers to thicken or stabilize products. It functions as a formulation aid rather than a skin-treatment active. |
| Citral Fragrance/aroma ingredient | Citral is a naturally occurring aldehyde found in citrus and lemongrass oils, used in cosmetics primarily for its fresh, lemon-like scent. It is a recognized fragrance allergen rather than a treatment active. |
| Linalool Fragrance/masking agent | Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in lavender, coriander, and many other plants, used in skincare primarily as a fragrance component. It readily oxidizes upon exposure to air, forming sensitizing hydroperoxides. |
| Limonene Fragrance/solvent | Limonene is a naturally occurring monoterpene derived from citrus peel oils, commonly used as a fragrance component and solvent in cosmetic formulations. On exposure to air it oxidizes, forming compounds with greater sensitizing potential. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.