Below is every ingredient in Hyphen 18Percent Brightening 20Percent Collagen Double Serum explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a water-soluble active that supports the skin barrier, regulates sebum, brightens hyperpigmentation, and reduces inflammation. It is widely tolerated across skin types and used in concentrations commonly ranging from 2% to 10%.
Psoralea corylifolia (babchi) is a plant extract whose key compound bakuchiol is used as a retinol-like active for anti-aging, supporting collagen and improving skin texture. The whole-plant extract also contains psoralens, which are photosensitizing furocoumarins.
Centella Asiatica Callus Conditioned Media is a plant cell culture-derived ingredient containing the secreted metabolites (including triterpenes, amino acids, and growth-factor-like peptides) from cultured Centella asiatica callus cells. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, soothing, and skin-barrier-supporting properties.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Irritation or sensitivity | Very rare | Purified water itself is essentially inert; rare reactions are attributable to contaminants or accompanying ingredients rather than water. |
| Transepidermal water loss aggravation in compromised skin | Rare | Evaporation of water from products may transiently increase dryness in very compromised skin barriers if occlusives are absent. |
| Mild skin irritation | Rare | Occasional transient redness or stinging, typically in sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Contact allergy/sensitization | Very rare | Isolated reports; generally considered low allergenic potential. |
| Comedogenicity (pore-clogging) | Rare | Low comedogenic rating, but acne-prone individuals may rarely experience breakouts. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Linked to limonene and other citrus terpenes, especially when oxidized. |
| Skin irritation or sensitivity | Uncommon | May cause redness or stinging on sensitive or compromised skin. |
| Photosensitivity / phototoxic reaction | Rare | Citrus peel derivatives can contain trace furocoumarins; phototoxicity risk is low for purified peel extracts but possible with cold-pressed material. |
| Contact urticaria | Very rare | Immediate hive-like reaction reported infrequently with citrus extracts. |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
| Enhanced penetration of co-formulated irritants | Uncommon | As a penetration enhancer it may increase absorption and irritation potential of other actives. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Aqua Solvent / vehicle | Aqua (water) is the most common base ingredient in skincare formulations, serving as a solvent that dissolves water-soluble components and forms the medium for emulsions. It has no direct treatment activity and primarily contributes to texture, spreadability, and product delivery. |
| Coco-Caprylate Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Coco-Caprylate is a lightweight ester emollient derived from coconut-based fatty alcohols and caprylic acid, used to impart a silky, non-greasy spreadable feel in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It functions as a natural-origin alternative to silicones, softening and conditioning the skin surface. |
| Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract Fragrance/skin-conditioning | Citrus Nobilis (mandarin orange) Peel Extract is derived from the peel of the mandarin and is used in cosmetics primarily as a fragrance, antioxidant, and skin-conditioning agent. It contains flavonoids, limonene, and other volatile compounds that contribute aroma and mild antioxidant properties. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Propanediol Humectant/solvent | Propanediol is a plant-derived glycol used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that improves moisturization and the spreadability of formulations. It also helps solubilize other ingredients and can boost the efficacy of certain actives. |
| Niacinamide Key active Cell-communicating / barrier-repair active | Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a water-soluble active that supports the skin barrier, regulates sebum, brightens hyperpigmentation, and reduces inflammation. It is widely tolerated across skin types and used in concentrations commonly ranging from 2% to 10%. |
| Sodium Polyglutamate Humectant / moisturizer | Sodium polyglutamate is the sodium salt of polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer that binds and retains water in the skin, enhancing hydration and the moisturizing performance of formulations. It also forms a light film on the skin surface that can improve smoothness and reduce transepidermal water loss. |
| Crosspolymer Texture modifier / thickener | Crosspolymers are cross-linked synthetic polymers (e.g., carbomer or dimethicone crosspolymers) used to thicken, stabilize, and improve the sensory feel of formulations. They function as rheology modifiers and film-formers rather than as biologically active treatment ingredients. |
| Psoralea Corylifolia Key active Antioxidant/anti-aging botanical | Psoralea corylifolia (babchi) is a plant extract whose key compound bakuchiol is used as a retinol-like active for anti-aging, supporting collagen and improving skin texture. The whole-plant extract also contains psoralens, which are photosensitizing furocoumarins. |
| Rosa Canina Seed Oil Emollient / antioxidant oil | Rosa Canina Seed Oil (rosehip seed oil) is a plant-derived oil rich in essential fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic acid) and trace carotenoids, used to moisturize, support the skin barrier, and provide mild antioxidant benefits. It is also valued anecdotally for improving skin texture and the appearance of scars. |
| Centella Asiatica Callus Conditioned Media Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Callus Conditioned Media is a plant cell culture-derived ingredient containing the secreted metabolites (including triterpenes, amino acids, and growth-factor-like peptides) from cultured Centella asiatica callus cells. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant, soothing, and skin-barrier-supporting properties. |
| Saccharide Isomerate Humectant / moisturizer | Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-derived carbohydrate complex that binds to the skin's keratin to provide long-lasting hydration and improve moisture retention. It is structurally similar to carbohydrates naturally found in the skin's upper layers. |
| Sodium Levulinate Preservative / humectant | Sodium Levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid, derived from natural sugars, used primarily as a mild preservative and antimicrobial agent that also provides moisturizing properties. It is often paired with sodium anisate in natural-leaning preservative systems. |
| P-Anisic Acid Preservative / antimicrobial | P-Anisic acid is a naturally occurring phenolic acid (found in anise) used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative, antimicrobial, and skin-conditioning agent. It is often included in 'natural' preservative systems and may offer mild antioxidant and brightening properties. |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Antioxidant/stabilizer | Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a hindered-phenol antioxidant (also known as the industrial stabilizer Irganox 1010) used in cosmetic formulations to prevent oxidation and rancidity of oils, fats, and other ingredients. It functions primarily as a formulation stabilizer rather than a skin-active treatment. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Sodium Gluconate Chelating agent / skin-conditioning | Sodium gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid used in skincare primarily as a chelating agent to bind metal ions and stabilize formulations, with secondary humectant and skin-conditioning properties. It is generally considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Sodium Chloride Thickener / viscosity adjuster | Sodium chloride (table salt) is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening and viscosity-control agent, particularly in surfactant-based cleansers, and also acts as a mild abrasive in scrubs. It is generally well tolerated and considered a formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Citric Acid pH adjuster / AHA exfoliant | Citric acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits, used primarily to adjust and buffer formulation pH and as a chelating agent, and at higher concentrations as a mild chemical exfoliant. It can promote surface cell turnover and is sometimes included in antioxidant or brightening products. |
| Phenoxyethanol Preservative | Phenoxyethanol is a widely used broad-spectrum preservative that protects cosmetic and skincare formulations from bacterial and fungal contamination. It is typically used at concentrations up to 1% and serves as a formulation/base ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.