Below is every ingredient in The Derma Co 3000 Ppm Retinol Microneedle Serum Shot With Squalane Panthenol 10 G explained, its standout actives, and the side effects reported in research for those actives — analysed for Indian skin.
Flags derived from the ingredient list using dermatology reference data (fungal-acne substrate, comedogenicity, EU allergens). General guidance, not a diagnosis.
Answers are derived from the printed ingredient list and dermatology reference data — general guidance, not a diagnosis or a therapeutic claim.
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types.
Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited.
BHA (beta hydroxy acid), most commonly salicylic acid, is an oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates pores to dissolve excess sebum and dead skin cells. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and to improve skin texture and oiliness.
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne.
Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity.
Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations.
Aggregated from the active ingredients in this product.
| Reported effect | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Transient skin tightness or dryness | Uncommon | May occur in low-humidity environments where the ingredient can draw moisture from deeper skin layers if not sealed with an occlusive. |
| Mild irritation, redness, or stinging | Uncommon | Often related to other formulation components or compromised skin barrier rather than hyaluronic acid itself. |
| Allergic contact dermatitis | Rare | Reported infrequently; true hypersensitivity to topical hyaluronic acid is unusual. |
| Hypersensitivity reactions with injectable forms | Rare | Pertains to dermal filler use rather than topical application; includes swelling or nodule formation. |
| Comedogenic reaction / clogged pores | Uncommon | Oxidized squalene has been linked to comedone formation in acne-prone skin. |
| Skin irritation or redness | Rare | Generally well tolerated; mild irritation reported infrequently. |
| Oxidative breakdown causing skin reactivity | Uncommon | Squalene is prone to peroxidation, and oxidation products may be irritating or pro-inflammatory. |
| Mild skin irritation or stinging | Common | More likely at higher concentrations or on compromised/sensitive skin |
| Irritant contact dermatitis | Uncommon | Non-allergic irritation, often dose-dependent |
| Worsening of pre-existing eczema or barrier-impaired skin | Rare | Penetration-enhancing effect may increase reactivity |
| Systemic toxicity from topical use | Very rare | Reported mainly with extensive application on broken skin, especially in infants or burn patients |
| Mild transient stinging or irritation | Uncommon | More likely at high concentrations or on compromised/broken skin. |
| Tacky or sticky skin feel | Common | A cosmetic sensation rather than an adverse reaction, more noticeable at higher concentrations. |
| Contact dermatitis or allergic reaction | Rare | True allergy to glycerin is uncommon; patch-test positivity is infrequent. |
| Skin dehydration in very low humidity | Rare | In very dry environments humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not paired with an occlusive. |
Frequencies reflect typical cosmetic use reported in the literature, not a guarantee for your skin.
| Ingredient | What it does |
|---|---|
| Hyaluronic acid Key active Humectant / hydrating agent | Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and improve the appearance of plumpness and smoothness. It is widely used in moisturizers and serums and is generally well tolerated across skin types. |
| squalene Emollient / occlusive moisturizer | Squalene is a naturally occurring lipid found in human sebum, used in skincare as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent that helps reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics it is often hydrogenated to the more stable form squalane, as raw squalene oxidizes readily. |
| Propylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Propylene glycol is a small glycol molecule widely used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and penetration enhancer that helps attract water and dissolve other ingredients. It is considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Glycerin Humectant | Glycerin is a widely used humectant that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to hydrate the stratum corneum and support barrier function. It is considered safe and well-tolerated across most skin types and concentrations. |
| Butylene Glycol Humectant / solvent | Butylene glycol is a small diol commonly used in skincare as a humectant, solvent, and viscosity-reducing agent that helps dissolve other ingredients and improve skin feel. It is widely regarded as safe and non-sensitizing for the majority of users at cosmetic concentrations. |
| 2-Hexanediol Humectant/preservative-booster | 1,2-Hexanediol (commonly written 2-hexanediol) is a multifunctional diol used in skincare primarily as a humectant, solvent, and preservative-enhancing agent that improves the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations. It is generally well tolerated and considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than a treatment active. |
| Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Thickener / stabilizer | Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic acrylic-based polymer used as a rheology modifier, thickening agent, and emulsion stabilizer in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It helps create smooth, stable gels and creams without contributing active treatment benefits to the skin. |
| Spicule Microneedling delivery enhancer | Spicules are microscopic needle-like structures (typically derived from freshwater sponge spongilla or synthesized bio-silica) used in skincare to create transient micro-channels in the stratum corneum, enhancing penetration of co-formulated actives. They act as a physical exfoliant and delivery booster rather than a chemical active. |
| Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative booster / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional glyceryl ether used in cosmetics primarily as a preservative-enhancing agent and emollient, often paired with phenoxyethanol to broaden antimicrobial efficacy. It also acts as a deodorizing agent and humectant in skincare formulations. |
| Caprylyl Glycol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster | Caprylyl glycol is a multifunctional emollient and humectant derived from caprylic acid that helps hydrate skin and enhance the efficacy of preservatives in formulations. It is widely used as a stabilizing and conditioning base ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Squalane Emollient / occlusive moisturizer | Squalane is a saturated, stable hydrocarbon derived from squalene (sourced from plants like olives or sugarcane, or shark liver) used as a lightweight emollient that softens skin and reinforces the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss. It is well tolerated, non-comedogenic for most users, and serves as a base or carrier ingredient rather than a therapeutic active. |
| Sodium Polyacrylate Thickener / absorbent | Sodium polyacrylate is a superabsorbent acrylic-acid polymer used in skincare as a thickening, stabilizing, and water-binding agent that can hold large amounts of liquid to create gel-like textures. It functions as a formulation and texture-enhancing ingredient rather than a biologically active treatment. |
| Ethylhexyl Palmitate Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a lightweight ester of 2-ethylhexanol and palmitic acid used as an emollient, solvent, and texture-enhancer in cosmetics. It imparts a silky, dry feel and is often used as a synthetic substitute for mineral oil or silicones. |
| Sorbitan Oleate Emulsifier / surfactant | Sorbitan Oleate is a nonionic surfactant and lipophilic emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid, used to stabilize oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions in creams, lotions, and other cosmetic formulations. It is generally regarded as safe and well-tolerated at typical use concentrations. |
| Alcohol Solvent / penetration enhancer | Alcohol (typically ethanol or denatured alcohol) is used in skincare as a solvent, antimicrobial agent, and to improve product spreadability and rapid drying. It also enhances penetration of other ingredients and gives a lightweight feel to formulations. |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate Key active Antioxidant / Vitamin C derivative | Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipid-soluble, more stable ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an antioxidant in skincare formulations. It can help protect formulas from oxidation and may offer some skin antioxidant benefits, though its conversion to active ascorbic acid in skin is limited. |
| Bha Key active Chemical exfoliant | BHA (beta hydroxy acid), most commonly salicylic acid, is an oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates pores to dissolve excess sebum and dead skin cells. It is widely used to treat acne, blackheads, and to improve skin texture and oiliness. |
| Bht Antioxidant/preservative | BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) is a synthetic phenolic antioxidant used in small amounts to prevent oxidation and rancidity of oils, fragrances, and other unstable components, helping maintain product stability and shelf life. |
| Lecithin Emollient / Emulsifier | Lecithin is a naturally occurring phospholipid (commonly derived from soybean or egg) used in skincare as an emulsifier, emollient, and penetration enhancer. It helps stabilize oil-and-water formulations and supports the skin barrier by mimicking natural lipids. |
| Pentylene Glycol Humectant / solvent / preservative-booster | Pentylene glycol is a glycol used in cosmetics as a humectant and solvent that also enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of formulations, helping reduce reliance on traditional preservatives. It improves skin hydration and aids the delivery and stability of other ingredients. |
| Polysorbate 20 Emulsifier / solubilizer | Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from sorbitol and lauric acid, used in skincare to solubilize fragrances and essential oils and to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions. It functions primarily as a formulation aid rather than a treatment active. |
| Potassium Phosphate pH adjuster / buffering agent | Potassium phosphate is a salt used in cosmetic and skincare formulations primarily as a buffering agent and pH stabilizer, helping maintain product stability and skin compatibility. It is considered a base/formulation ingredient rather than an active treatment. |
| Retinol Key active Vitamin A derivative / anti-aging active | Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen synthesis. It is widely used to address fine lines, photoaging, and acne. |
| Tocopherol Key active Antioxidant | Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a lipid-soluble antioxidant used in skincare to protect skin and formulations from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure. It also functions as a skin-conditioning and emollient agent and can stabilize oils against rancidity. |
| Xanthan Gum Thickener/stabilizer | Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, used in skincare as a thickening, gelling, and emulsion-stabilizing agent. It improves product texture and suspension of ingredients without contributing active treatment effects. |
| Panthenol Humectant / skin-conditioning agent | Panthenol (provitamin B5) is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, where it acts as a humectant and helps support skin barrier function and hydration. It is also used for its soothing and mild anti-inflammatory properties in topical formulations. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant / hydrator | Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that attracts and binds water to the skin to improve hydration and surface plumpness. Its lower molecular weight allows better penetration than native hyaluronic acid. |
| Centella Asiatica Extract Key active Soothing/antioxidant active | Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived ingredient rich in triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids) used to calm inflammation, support wound healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also valued for antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties in topical formulations. |
| Caprylic Capric Triglycerides Emollient / skin-conditioning agent | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin, used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and act as a carrier for oil-soluble ingredients. It is widely regarded as well-tolerated and non-comedogenic in most formulations. |
| Lysine Amino acid / conditioning agent | Lysine is an essential amino acid used in skincare primarily as a skin-conditioning and humectant-like ingredient, and as a component supporting collagen and protein structure. It is generally well tolerated and often included in moisturizing or repair-focused formulations. |
| Histidine Amino acid / skin-conditioning agent | Histidine is an essential amino acid used in skincare as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent, helping to support the skin's natural moisturizing factor and antioxidant defenses. It may also help buffer formulations and bind metal ions. |
| Arginine Amino acid / pH adjuster & conditioning agent | Arginine is a basic amino acid used in skincare primarily as a pH buffer/neutralizer and humectant-like conditioning agent that supports skin hydration and barrier function. It is generally well tolerated and often paired with acidic ingredients to balance formulation pH. |
| Aspartic Acid Amino acid / humectant | Aspartic acid is a non-essential amino acid used in skincare primarily as a hydrating and conditioning agent, often as part of amino acid complexes or natural moisturizing factor (NMF) blends. It supports skin barrier function and helps maintain hydration. |
| Threonine Amino acid / skin conditioning agent | Threonine is an essential amino acid used in skincare primarily as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent, helping support hydration and the skin's natural moisturizing factor. It is also a building block for proteins such as collagen and elastin. |
| Serine Humectant / amino acid | Serine is a naturally occurring amino acid and component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), used in skincare to support hydration and help maintain the skin barrier. It is typically incorporated as a conditioning and water-binding agent rather than a clinical treatment active. |
| Glutamic Acid Humectant / amino acid | Glutamic acid is a naturally occurring amino acid used in skincare as a humectant and component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), helping to maintain hydration and support the skin barrier. It is also used as a pH adjuster and in some formulations to enhance moisturization. |
| Proline Amino acid / skin-conditioning agent | Proline is a non-essential amino acid and a key component of collagen, used in skincare as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent to support hydration and the skin barrier. It is generally well tolerated and often included in formulations for its moisturizing and structural-protein-supporting properties. |
| Glycine Amino acid / humectant | Glycine is a small amino acid used in skincare as a humectant and conditioning agent, supporting skin hydration and acting as a building block for collagen and natural moisturizing factor. It is generally considered well-tolerated and is often included as part of moisturizing or barrier-support formulations. |
| Alanine Amino acid / humectant | Alanine is a small non-essential amino acid used in skincare as a humectant and component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), helping to maintain hydration and support the skin barrier. It is also used as a buffering agent and to improve the feel of formulations. |
| Valine Amino acid / skin conditioning agent | Valine is a branched-chain essential amino acid used in skincare primarily as a humectant and skin-conditioning component, often as part of amino acid blends that support the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It helps maintain hydration and contributes to the protein-building constituents found naturally in the skin. |
| Isoleucine Conditioning amino acid / humectant | Isoleucine is a branched-chain amino acid used in skincare as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant that helps maintain hydration and supports the skin's natural moisturizing factor. It is generally included in formulations to improve skin feel and barrier support rather than as a primary therapeutic active. |
| Leucine Skin-conditioning amino acid | Leucine is a branched-chain essential amino acid used in skincare primarily as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant that helps support the skin's natural moisturizing factor. It is generally included at low concentrations as a supportive or formulation ingredient rather than a primary treatment active. |
| Tyrosin Key active Melanin precursor / amino acid | Tyrosine is an amino acid that serves as the natural precursor in the melanin synthesis pathway, and is sometimes included in topical or oral products marketed to support tanning or pigmentation. Topical evidence for meaningfully boosting melanin production is limited and weak. |
| Phenylalanine Amino acid / conditioning agent | Phenylalanine is an essential aromatic amino acid used in skincare as a skin-conditioning and humectant agent, and is also studied for its role in melanin synthesis pathways. In topical formulations it generally serves a supportive, hydrating function. |
| Allantoin Key active Soothing/skin-conditioning agent | Allantoin is a naturally derived or synthetically produced compound used in skincare for its soothing, moisturizing, and keratolytic (skin-softening) properties. It promotes cell proliferation and helps calm irritation, commonly appearing in creams, lotions, and after-sun products. |
| Bisabolol Key active Soothing/anti-inflammatory agent | Bisabolol is a naturally derived (typically from chamomile) or synthetic terpene alcohol used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is also reported to enhance penetration of other ingredients and offers mild antimicrobial activity. |
| Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Emollient / occlusive | Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic hydrocarbon emollient that imparts a smooth, non-greasy slip and forms an occlusive film to reduce transepidermal water loss. It is widely used as a lightweight alternative to mineral oil in moisturizers, lip products, and color cosmetics. |
Key active = does the main work. Ingredient explanations are drawn from public databases & literature.
Peer-reviewed papers on the active ingredients in this product, via PubMed.